Heavy Table Hot Five: June 24-30

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Each Friday, this list will track five of the best things Heavy Table’s writers, editors, and photographers have recently bitten or sipped. Have a suggestion for the Hot Five? Email editor@heavytable.com.

shepherd-song-banner-ad-horiz-3The Hot Five is a weekly feature created by the Heavy Table and supported by Shepherd Song Farm.

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James Norton / Heavy Table

James Norton / Heavy Table

1-new - oneHeliotropic Wooden Soul Saison Brett by Indeed Brewing
This week we taped this season’s last edition of our podcast, The Weekend Starts Now, at Indeed Brewing’s barrel room. We feasted on Annie B’s caramels; we were serenaded by Ashley Gold of Holidae (above); and we tasted our way through four of the beers in the sour, funky, wild, and barrel-aged series called Wooden Soul. My favorite: Wooden Soul #1, AKA Heliotropic, coming to bottles soon. A blend of three yeast strains, this dry, bubbly, grapy, slightly funky beer could easily pass for a sparkling wine. Some things do, in fact, get better with age.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from an Instagram post by James Norton]

Ruthie Young / Heavy Table

Ruthie Young / Heavy Table

2-new - twoBone-in Kingston Style Jerk Chicken at Pimento
This tropically spicy menu staple at Pimento does not disappoint — from the fall-off-the-bone, marinated meat to the mounds of coconut rice, Jamaican slaw, and fried sweet plantains it’s served on. For just $9, this hearty meal is a home-cooked steal, and the fast-casual environment had us enjoying the Jamaican fare in no time. Choose one of five homemade sauces. We chose the medium-heat “Minnesota nice,” but next time we’ll ask for a side of the habanero-lime “Kill Dem Wid It,” just for some extra fun.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by Ruthie Young]

James Norton / Heavy Table

James Norton / Heavy Table

3-new - threeRotisserie Chicken from The Dirty Bird
Upton 43’s sidecar grab-and-go restaurant is about as simple as they come: a small counter slinging whole and half rotisserie chickens along with a few sides and sauces. We thought our chicken was divine — profoundly moist and tender flesh with a delicate-yet-crispy skin that was practically glowing with hot, spice-rubbed flavor. This is the only chicken we’ve met that can stand up to the wood-fired rotisserie of Holy Land, and that’s saying a lot.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from an Instagram post by James Norton]

James Norton / Heavy Table

James Norton / Heavy Table

4-new fourSweet Child of Vine by Fulton Beer at Chef Camp
This week we got up to Camp Miller to re-explore and start working on a dry run for this September’s Chef Camp retreat. (Five tickets remain; act quickly if you’re intrigued.) Our beer sponsor, Fulton, came with us, and we feasted on lamb and pesto sandwiches on Spoon and Stable bread, fire-roasted asparagus, and — of course — Fulton Beer. Sweet Child of Vine is one of the beers that made the company’s name, and it’s a gorgeous thing to drink in the woods on a summer day. It’s a multidimensional IPA with a lot to say, its flavor built upon a dramatic and ultimately satisfying tension between malt and hops.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from an Instagram post by James Norton]

James Norton / Heavy Table

James Norton / Heavy Table

5-new -fiveBerry Crumble Ice Cream from Sweet Science
Lakewinds Food Co-op dispatched a “flavors of summer” box to our door, and it contained — hallelujah — a pint of Sweet Science ice cream. The timing of this particular flavor wasn’t accidental. Berry Crumble is summer in a cardboard cylinder: whole berries plus crumbly topping plus full-flavored ice cream in a single, convenient package.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by James Norton]



The Weekend Starts Now: Season 2, Episode 10

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The Weekend Starts Now podcast taped the tenth show of its second season at Indeed Brewing Company‘s Ox Room on Tuesday, June 16.

This weekly podcast is a joint project of the Heavy Table and Secrets of the City, and it covers art, music, food, drink, culture, and more in the Upper Midwest.

You can follow and listen to the show on Soundcloud, or play the show by following the links below. And you can subscribe to the podcast on iTunes.

Nick Fay / Heavy Table

Nick Fay / Heavy Table

The Weekend Starts Now is brought to you by Indeed Brewing Company. Indeed Brewing Company cultivates an artfully eclectic lineup of distinctive flagship beers, well-loved seasonal releases, and adventurous specialty brews from the heart of Northeast Minneapolis. Indeed Brewing: We’re not just brewing beer, We’re crafting experiences. We are thirsty creatures, Indeed. There’s more to explore at www.indeedbrewing.com.

Hear the whole episode here!

SEGMENT 1: INTRODUCTION

Wherein James and Taylor talk about the nomenclature of “LynLake.”

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

SEGMENT 2: KATHRYN SIEVE OF WINSOME GOODS

One of the area’s rising fashion moguls, Kathryn Sieve of Winsome Goods, talks about the joys of gutting an old trailer to create a mobile awesomeness zone.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

SEGMENT 3: TRACY SINGLETON OF BIRCHWOOD CAFE

Local food legend Tracy Singleton of Birchwood Cafe joins us to talk about the cafe’s BOOST dinner series.

SEGMENT 4: YOUR WEEKEND STARTS NOW

Everything you need to plan a killer arts-and-rock-n-roll weekend in the Minneapolis-St. Paul metro including the Chalk Walk Arts Festival and the Winsome Goods trailer debut party.



Green Line Checklist: Midway Pro Bowl to Big V’s

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

According to our schedule, we’re just over halfway now. So it feels appropriate that we’ve finally reached Snelling Avenue.

Snelling feels like a natural divider. Like a river or a mountain range. Except in this case, there’s no actual border. We’re still in St. Paul. But we’re making real headway and closing in on Minneapolis.

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

We’re at that point on a road trip when you get about halfway and you pull over for gas, climb out of the car, stretch and shade your eyes with your hand and look down the road toward your destination, and somehow the wind just seems to be at your back.

Appropriately, we spent the majority of this outing at and around the Midway Shopping Center.

Midway? That can’t be a coincidence. — M.C. Cronin

This week’s checklist crew: WACSO, M.C. Cronin, Becca Dilley, James Norton, Ted Held.

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

GREEN LINE INSTALLMENTS THUS FAR: 88 Oriental Foods to Thai Cafe, Ha Tien Deli to Hook Fish and Chicken, Family Lao Thai to Cheng Heng, SugaRush to PaJai, Pinoy Fusion to The Best Steakhouse, Johnny Baby’s to Ngon Bistro, Flamingo to Trend Bar.

ABOUT THIS PROJECT

The Green Line Checklist is the Heavy Table’s follow-up to our 55-restaurant survey of independent eateries on Central Avenue. We’ll publish five-restaurant installments biweekly until we’ve documented every nonchain spot between the University Avenue and Rice Street intersection in St. Paul and the Green Line terminus on Washington Avenue in Minneapolis. (We’re estimating 75 spots, but we’ll see how it shakes out.)

central-corridor-funders-logoThis series is made possible by underwriting from the Central Corridor Funders Collaborative. Heavy Table retains editorial control of the series — as with Central Avenue, this tour will be warts-and-all.

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

Midway Pro Bowl
1556 University Ave W, St. Paul
Snelling Avenue Station

It’s barely a sliver of storefront in the Midway Shopping Center. Just enough space for a sign and an entrance. Judging from the outside, you’d think it was a four-lane bowling alley, at best.

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

Then you open the door and the illusion is shattered. You immediately descend a staircase into a cavern of lanes. The place is huge. It’s the Taj Mabowl. There are so many lanes, it begs the question of whether there are really that many people who bowl.

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

Based on Midway Pro Bowl’s continued existence, the answer, apparently, is yes. But the night we visited, there was hardly a soul in the joint. Thirty-two lanes, and not a rockslinger in sight.

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

The snack bar next to the shoe rental was deserted (it’s open only on league nights), but we got the sense that we didn’t miss much. When we asked the shoe jockey if the burger was worth coming back for, his considered pause before speaking told us all we needed to know.

Fortunately, the bar was open and offered a small selection of frozen pizzas. Our bartender offered to dress up a cheese pizza with some sliced green olives from the bar — a little trick she devised, and one we plan to repeat on our next bar pizza.

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

But the real gem in the place was the pro shop — a glassed-in area beside the lanes full of medieval-looking equipment especially designed to commit various acts of torture to bowling balls including drilling them, spinning them, and baking them to extract oil from deep in their pores. These devices even have cool superhero-esque names like “The Reviver” and “Custom-Matic” (which is a special bowling ball drilled to look like a globe of Swiss cheese for the purpose of finger measurement).

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

Based solely on the lineup of balls awaiting service here, we’d say the owner of the pro shop appears to be a master of his craft. There was a collection of at least ten balls that belonged to a single bowler (an arsenal that would make Genghis Khan jealous). If a serious bowler like that trusts this guy with his equipment, we’re pretty sure the casual bowler could do worse that visit this pro shop. — M.C.

*** FOOD NOTES ***

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The Heavy Table was only so-so on the Lotzza Motzza Brew Pub Pizza ($12) when we tried it at home, but in what we presume is its natural habitat (a bowling alley in St. Paul), we warmed to it. Maybe it was the beers that accompanied it or the fact that the waitress dressed up our pie with green olives from the bar, sliced thinly and dropped onto the pizza before it was baked, but we thought this humble, tavern-cut pizza would go pretty well with a few frames of bowling. — James Norton

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

Golden Gate Cafe
1464½ University Ave W, St. Paul
Snelling or Hamline Avenue Station

A woman came in, and the hostess greeted her as if she were a close friend. “Hi! How are you doing?”

WACSO / Heavy Table

WACSO / Heavy Table

“Really well.”

“So good to see you. [grabbing menus] Who else is coming tonight?”

“Amy and my mom and … [dramatic pause] … the new baby.”

“Ooooh. The baby! How old is she now?”



The Tap: A Fight for Survival at Mr. Roberts Resort

Banner for the Tap: Food and Drink News

This week in the Tap: Recent restaurant openings and closings, plus a call for support for the newly opened Mr. Roberts Resort in Pengilly.

The Tap is the metro area’s comprehensive restaurant buzz roundup, so if you see a new or newly shuttered restaurant, or anything that’s “coming soon,” email Tap editor James Norton at editor@heavytable.com.

Sarah Master / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Do-or-Die Time for Mr. Roberts Resort

Sarah Master is one of the best chefs working in the state. Her tenure at Barbette was understated but glorious, we loved her food at Porter and Frye, and we were blown away by the soft-spoken but impeccably done stuff she’s been turning out at Mr. Roberts Resort in Pengilly. A perfect storm of a lousy winter (not enough snow to encourage winter tourists; too much bad weather to attract visitors from 20+ miles away) and a lack of available loans have put the restaurant in a position where it may have to shut down. Check out the restaurant’s Go Fund Me page; if you find it convincing, you can help turn the tide for a beacon of good eats on the Iron Range.

And if you’d like to learn some gastronomic artistry from Chef Master, join her and our other chef instructors at Chef Camp — six tickets remain for the Sept. 2-4 event.

NOW OPEN

Isabel Subtil / Heavy Table

Isabel Subtil / Heavy Table

Jane Rosemarin / Heavy Table

Jane Rosemarin / Heavy Table

  • Rose Street Patisserie, 2811 W 43rd St, Minneapolis | The Linden Hills incarnation of Patisserie 46 is a bakery and full-service restaurant with 54 seats.
  • Wildwood Scoop, 460 Stillwater Rd, Willernie
  • Handsome Hog, 203 E 6th St, St. Paul | Former Brasserie Zentral and Meritage chef Justin Sutherland is cooking contemporary Southern food with a high-end twist. Our review.


An Eaux Claires Music and Arts Festival Food Preview

Mike Mommsen / Heavy Table

Mike Mommsen / Heavy Table

’Tis the season to sweat, eat and drink among the sticky masses at outdoor music festivals, and the second Eaux Claires Music & Arts Festival looks to be expanding its food and beverage offerings to match the excellence of its musical lineup. Last year, the food was disappointing — carnival-style fare, for the most part, and not enough of it. This time around, they’re bringing in a long list of regional food trucks, vendors, and carts from Minneapolis / St. Paul, Madison, and Eau Claire.

Here’s the full rundown of food and drink you can expect to find on August 12 and 13.

EAUX CLAIRES 2016 FOOD & DRINK LINEUP

9 Degrees (Eau Claire)
Mackinac Island fudge ice cream
Mint chocolate chip ice cream
Strawberry ice cream
Mocha mud pie ice cream

Clear Water BBQ (Eau Claire)
Pulled pork
Pulled brisket
Ribs

Conley’s Ice (St Louis, Mo.)
Fresh squeezed lemonade
Frozen lemonade
Shaved ice

Croix Valley BBQ (River Falls)
Pig wings
Pulled pork sandwiches
Ribs

Daryl’s Dog House (White Bear Lake)
Chicago style hot dogs

Dogwood Coffee (Minneapolis and Winnipeg, Manitoba, Canada)
Zamboni cold brew
Maple syrup infused cold brew
Almond milk iced lattes
Drip coffee

Dumpling Darling (Iowa City)
Pork, beef, veggie, and tofu steamed dumplings and bao buns
Kimchi
Spicy edamame
Fat rice noodles with red pepper sauce