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The Heavy Table – Minneapolis-St. Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine and Blog
Courtesy of Bob Guthrie

Courtesy of Bob Guthrie

“I would not live in Minnesota because you cannot grow apples there.” — Horace Greeley

Bob Guthrie – geologist, environmental scientist, and cold hardy kiwifruit advocate — references Greeley’s quote during a discussion about growing cold hardy kiwis in Minnesota. The point he intends to make: First assumptions are not always correct. In this case, the 30 successful apple varietals released by the University of Minnesota since 1920 refute Greeley’s claim. Guthrie then links Greeley’s quote to another, which is similar in nature but references kiwi vines rather than apple trees: “A rampant growing ornamental vine from Japan … has been found to be unreliable. We cannot advise planting as there are more desirable vines.” – Samuel B. Green, professor of horticulture, University of Minnesota, 1905.

A Lifetime Passion

For the past two decades Guthrie has worked to prove Green’s premise wrong. “Look at us now. We have a Honeycrisp apple. We can do the same thing with kiwifruit,” he says. His work with kiwi vines dates back to 1990, when he planted his first vines in the backyard of his rental duplex. Guthrie found the varietal he used could not survive a Minnesota winter, and upon buying a home in Roseville in 1992, started acquiring and planting additional vines that could. Since that point his kiwifruit activities have increased significantly.

At the suggestion of Jim Luby, a longtime friend and fruit-breeding professor at the University of Minnesota, Guthrie started volunteering at the University’s Horticultural Research Center in Victoria in the early 1990s (the HRC was growing one row of kiwi vines at the time). Since then, Guthrie has collaborated with Luby and other investigators on cold hardy kiwi research, expanded the HRC’s collection, helped with two grant proposals, performed countless hours of care and research, visited several commercial kiwifruit orchards, and attended international kiwifruit symposiums. Since 1996 he’s also crossed different kiwifruit species in order to develop one that can tolerate Minnesota winters and, of course, be tasty. Oh, and this is all on his own time. “My wife Jenny and three kids would likely tell you that it is a bit more than a hobby, but it does keep me out of trouble,” he says.

What is Cold Hardy?

Courtesy of Bob Guthrie

Cold hardy kiwis don’t look like the typical brown fuzzy, green-fleshed fruits you see at the grocery store (typically a varietal named Hayward, see left for comparison). They’re grape-sized and fuzz-free. Much like a grape, you can pop them in your mouth, skins and all. Cold hardy kiwis can withstand below-freezing temperatures, unlike the Hayward kiwis, which are sensitive to cold and unable to survive temperatures below 10 degrees Fahrenheit.

There are three cold hardy kiwi varietals that can survive the Minnesota cold: Actindia kolomikta (Arctic Beauty), A. arguta (Bower Berry), and A. polygama (Silver Vine) — though the latter two flourish only in southern parts of the state – USDA Hardiness Zone Four. A. kolomikta and A. arguta have smooth green skins, whereas A. polygama turns from green to orange upon ripening. The skin and flesh of some varieties of A. arguta can  range from green to red to purple. They also taste much sweeter than your standard kiwi – sugar contents of cold hardy kiwis are higher than the Hayward varietal. These cold hardy kiwifruits make an excellent snack or addition to a salad. They can also be dried, like raisins, or used to make a sweet wine.

Cold hardy kiwis are not new to Minnesota. They were growing here long before Guthrie or the HRC began their research. Their first recorded existence dates back to the late 1892. The plants belonged to R.J. Mendenhall (a Minnesota businessman) and his wife Abby, and grew at their home — Guilford Place, located in Minneapolis at Lake and Nicollet. Though not a horticulturist by profession, Mendenhall’s lot and surrounding nurseries were, at the time, regarded as “one of the foremost in the country.” As mentioned above, Green, the first professor of horticulture at the University of Minnesota, also reported on cold hardy kiwis at the turn of the 20thcentury. It’s likely that he was familiar with kiwi vines prior to their Minnesota introduction thanks to one of his professors at the Massachusetts Agricultural College (now University of Massachusetts), who brought seeds to the United States from Japan in 1876. After Green’s death in 1910, the statewide interest in kiwi vines diminished until the mid-1980s, eventually becoming an area of interest for investigators such as Guthrie.

Continue reading Growing Kiwifruit in Minnesota »

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Alli Wade / Heavy Table

Alli Wade / Heavy Table

During the three hour drive from the concrete and buzz of city life to the romantic farming community of Caledonia, one can’t help but welcome the unexpected change in landscape. You’re no longer surrounded by a flat plains, but rather the rolling hills of bluff country amongst the self-proclaimed “mountains of Minnesota.” It’s easy to understand what drew the French-born Christian Gasset and his wife Liz to this breathtaking pocket of land. The views and ambiance are not unlike where he grew up in France.

Alli Wade / Heavy Table

Alli Wade / Heavy Table

The Gassets are the owners and operators in charge of Au Bon Canard, a Minnesota duck farm supplying locals with breasts, wings, and all other parts duck. Perhaps most notable, however, is their foie gras (pronounced fwah-grah). According to French rural code, foie gras is the liver of duck or goose, fattened by gavage — a force-feeding technique that has been targeted by animal rights activists and defended by Michael Pollan, among others. The mouthwatering delicacy was historically considered an elite treat in France until its popularity and demand migrated across the Atlantic, where it’s now a regular item on American menus. Some examples of its presence in local restaurants are the Foie Gras Meatballs at 112 Eatery and seasonal dishes at La Belle Vie and Heartland. (La Belle Vie is currently offering a Seared Foie Gras with Buttercup Squash and Pistachio, while foie gras appeared on Heartland’s daily-changing menu last week.)

Au Bon Canard is one of three foie gras producers in the country. Compared to the competition, they operate on a highly artisanal scale, delivering roughly 2,000 ducks per year – Sonoma Foie Gras in California and Hudson Valley Foie Gras in New York produce around 10,000 per week. Also unlike larger producers, Christian and Liz operate as a two-person team, only bringing in outside assistance during the slaughter. An additional bonus for Minnesota residents – sales are limited to Minnesotan restaurants and distributors. Around 90 to 95 percent of their product stays in state and they utilize a local distributor, Great Ciao, based in Minneapolis.

As of late, it seems we’ve all jumped on the “Where does my food come from?” bandwagon. This consumer curiosity is a comfortable match with the absolute open-door policy shared by the Gassets. During a recent tour of the farm, Christian walked through every step of a duck’s life at Au Bon Canard, from their initial arrival to the packaging room.

Alli Wade / Heavy Table

Alli Wade / Heavy Table

“Hey guys,” he gently murmurs, knocking on the door of the first stop on the tour, the small barn that is the duckling home. Ducks arrive to the farm as one-day-olds and are quickly shuttled in here. The breed, Moulard, is a cross between Muscovy and Peking. (The eggs come from France, but the ducks are born in California.) Gasset clucks his tongue as he swings the barn door open, careful not to startle them or disturb their emotional state. One of the beliefs behind a quality foie gras product is that the ducks endure the least amount of stress possible. “Stress is the number one factor behind taste,” says Gasset in a thick French accent. “That’s why I like to raise them myself, so they know me. When I do the feeding, they know I’m not going to hurt them.”

Continue reading The Ducks of Au Bon Canard in Caledonia »

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Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

After spending three and a half years in Parma, Italy, Herb and Kathy Eckhouse returned to Iowa with dreams of making prosciutto. These dreams led them on a cured meat journey that started with Herb studying the art of prosciutto making for five years and experimenting by making it in their home. In 2005 their dream expanded and they moved their newly formed company, La Quercia (pronounced La Kwair-cha), to its current production facility in Norwalk, Iowa. Though it was a a risky endeavor to undertake, their dreams began to pay off when La Quercia Prosciutto Americano caught the attention of food critics soon after their first orders shipped; praises have been sung ever since.

Intrigued to understand the magic behind what Jeffrey Steingarten called the “best prosciutto you can find in this country, imported or domestic,” the Heavy Table took a trip down to the facility to witness what Herb Eckhouse has called “assisting in a miracle.”

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

La Quercia’s production facility is designed to mimic the seasons, respective to the origin of drying meat through the winter as a preservation method. Each Friday, a shipment of pork arrives from Iowa suppliers: Becker Lane Organic Farm, Organic Valley, Niman Ranch, Heritage Acres, and Eden Farms. The morning is dedicated to salting the legs — the most important step in the process, according to the Eckhouses.

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

With Italian opera blasting from the stereo — we’re told that the hams like Italian opera — the team of nine workers, including the Eckhouses, methodically works through pallet after pallet of hams. Each leg is trimmed, salted, and quality-checked by Herb before being placed on a movable cart.

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Once carts are full, they are moved to the first of many rooms that parallel the conditions of the seasons. Continue reading Prosciutto Making at La Quercia in Norwalk, IA »

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Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

This piece began as a classic farm-to-market story: It was mid-August, the Cities were gearing up for the State Fair, and Minnesota Cooks pitched us the opportunity to speak with one of the producers supplying their upcoming event. We chose Natura Farms for two reasons, one because they had partnered with Spoonriver – a restaurant whose veggies have long inspired our appetites – and two because we were fascinated by something we found on the farm’s website: “Eco-farmers are the genuine health workers of the world because ‘health comes from the farm, not the pharmacy!’”

The story progressed; we interviewed the affable farm manager, Paul Otten, visited Natura and photographed fruits and vegetables. And then, in the course of our research, we discovered that Christ’s Household of Faith (CHOF), a church and community in Saint Paul, owns the farm. In its more than 30-year existence, CHOF has had its share of controversy and has not always fared well in the media. The issue became this: Can we write about Natura and Paul Otten without addressing past allegations, some of which are fairly serious?

In the end, we determined that today, at least, the farm and CHOF intersect at food and health. This is, in short, a story about a farmer, his idiosyncratic growing style, and his philosophical approach to diet.

On an early Saturday morning in late August, the air at Natura Farms is warm and quietly buzzing with bees. The light has that golden quality that comes with fall and in it the white farmhouse and adjacent barn, lined with yellow dwarf sunflowers, look positively iconic.

Natura, located in Marine on St. Croix, is actually a single farm and, at just 25 acres of agricultural area, a deceptively small one. Looking out across the land, it seems possible to sum it up in a sweeping glance: fields, green houses, orchard, and vineyard. Yet that space belies an unusual diversity of fruits and vegetables, from the everyday to the somewhat treasured — as in a collection of some thirty gooseberry and currant varieties.

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

It’s a u-pick farm, but even though the day is gorgeous, there are only a handful of takers – could be the time of day, the time of season, or the fact that outside of its website, the farm doesn’t advertise. Natura is less a commercial venture than it is a source of organic produce and fruit for CHOF in St. Paul.

It is hard to get a bead on CHOF: It has been called a church, a commune, and a cult. Since about 1970, its members have followed the religious leadership of Donald Alsbury, a one-time pastor with the Lutheran Church – Missouri Synod, but the church is non-denominational Christian and there isn’t a formal hierarchy.

Originally, members gave all their worldly possessions to CHOF when they joined and were fully supported by the church. Today, some members moonlight for spending money, but the spirit of communal living prospers. The church still provides jobs, a small stipend, basic health care, a K-12 education, access to vehicles, and a place to live.  CHOF owns several homes around Ramsey Hill and some of its members live in the church’s headquarters at old St. Joseph’s Academy, which also houses the school. Jobs are provided within the organization, at CHOF-owned businesses – among them, North Star Kitchens, an award-winning kitchen and bathroom cabinetry company – or at the school, which also has an excellent reputation.

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Quiet and inwardly focused, CHOF makes the news rarely, typically when the school’s basketball teams win — or when there’s controversy. Over the years, the church has had its share of public debate, including a more than 18-year court battle, which culminated in 2008 when the Minnesota State Court of Appeals ordered CHOF to pay the $235,000 in over-due child support owed by one of its members and the church failed to bounce it into the federal courts. In the early ’90s, former members alleged physical abuse against women and children; reportedly, formal charges were never made, but Alsbury’s public and unqualified support of corporal punishment still haunts the church.

Continue reading Paul Otten of Natura Farms »

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Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Earlier this month, Heavy Table photographer Becca Dilley took a day to visit Wisconsin cranberry country and watched the harvest come in. Wetherby Cranberry Company is one of most publicly accessible cranberry marshes in the state of Wisconsin, which in turn provides 55 percent of the world’s supply of the fruit.

A ramp (above) is set up for the purpose of giving a modified tractor access to the marsh.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The harvester then enters the shallow water.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Once in the marsh, the harvester agitates the cranberry plants, knocking the berries loose. In a good year, each acre of Wetherby marsh produces about 200 100-pound barrels of berries (about 20,000 pounds).

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The berries float to the surface, where they are corralled, pumped up, and trucked to a gravity sorter that brings them into the processing plant. Here, they’re sized, further sorted, and packaged for retail and direct sales.

For more on Wisconsin cranberries, check out our cranberry blossom tour and recipes.

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