Editor’s Note, 10.27.13: True Thai is now closed.
Considering how universal Thai food is becoming, there is an amazing range out there in terms of the stuff’s impact. It can be tame, quiet, sweet, and completely subdued to even a bland Midwestern palate. Or it can be, as it is at True Thai, roaring with jungle funk and bright spice. The crowds that often rush this unpretentious but comfortable neighborhood Thai joint are the leading indicator that there’s something special going on here. The food has more pep, more punch, and more depth than the majority of its competitors; it stands in direct contrast to the literally weak sauce dished up by Uptown’s Tum Rup Thai, and it rivals St. Paul’s Ruam Mit Thai for sheer impact and honesty. Unlike The King and I Thai, True Thai isn’t so much about a fancy dining experience or a loungey bar; it’s a place for people who love full flavor to savor the richness of one of the world’s great and distinctive cuisines. The price isn’t bad, either.
BEST BET: Bangkok Crispy Sweet Beef, served with sticky rice as an appetizer; an amazing twist on beef jerky and a great starter. The soups are universally good, and the Pad Thai will enhance your understanding of the dish’s true potential.
Thai in Seward, Minneapolis
2627 East Franklin Ave
Minneapolis, MN 55406
OWNER / CHEF: Anna Prasomphol Fieser
BAR: Beer and Wine
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED?: Yes / Yes for weekends
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN: Yes / Yes
ENTREE RANGE: $7-14