I accidentally walked past the entrance to TokiDoki Burger twice.
It’s located a couple of doors down from one of chef/owner Yuichiro Matthew Kazama’s other restaurants, the Minneapolis location of Ramen Kazama. His newest venture opened on March 1 and there isn’t a sign up yet, although some dangling wires seem to indicate that it’s coming soon. Inside, the bright, minimal decor has a fresh-out-of-the-box feel.
The menu pairs American burgers with Japanese influences, with several burgers and sandwiches, a few entrees including a fried pork cutlet and fried chicken, and bar food small plates like wings, nachos, and poutine. Diners can either order from a cashier at the bar or via a QR code on their table, and servers circulate throughout the dining room to drop off food, refill water glasses, and make sure everything is going smoothly.
I couldn’t resist the novelty of the Cheese Curds ($9) which layer Japanese tonkatsu sauce, kewpie mayo, aonori (seaweed flakes), and bonito flakes onto the Midwestern favorite. The batter was so crisp and delicate that the curds almost didn’t seem deep-fried—they had an airy, ethereal quality that made the gooey cheese within almost an afterthought. The tonkatsu sauce provided an intriguing umami note, and the flurry of bonito flakes made for a fun presentation and lightened up the dish. These definitely aren’t classic cheese curds—they’re in their own delicious category.
Similarly, the Karai Burger ($16.50, pictured at top) takes a familiar cheeseburger and adds a bunch of fascinating culinary twists and turns. On paper, it sounds like it might be a bit much: bacon, housemade Thai chili fish sauce, choto karai sauce (a blend of cilantro, jalapeño, and lime), house-pickled carrots, lettuce, and cheddar cheese. But when I bit into it, what struck me the most was the hamburger patty. This is a legit burger, and the juicy, perfectly crisped patty has an intensely beefy taste. The various toppings add flavors in a more subtle, balanced way than I expected—the crisp vegetables and bright choto karai sauce contrast with the melted cheese, and even the shishito pepper garnish and little dish of pickled cucumber on the side feel carefully considered and executed.
All of the burgers and sandwiches come with a heap of crisp fries, with an option to substitute the purple shiso-seasoned Purple Rain fries ($1 upcharge). The purple hue is understated, but the aromatic, herbal notes were a flavorful addition, and well worth the extra cost.
In the era of Beyond and Impossible burgers, it was gratifying to order a veggie burger that was loud and proud about its identity instead of pretending to be something else. The Yasai Burger ($16.50) features a veggie patty made from tofu, oatmeal, and edamame, plus toppings of tomato, arugula, and choto karai sauce. (The burger can be made vegan upon request by substituting a vegan gluten-free bun for the standard brioche bun.)
I wish TokiDoki sold their housemade veggie patties to go, because I would buy a dozen to keep in my freezer—they crisp up beautifully, with a hearty, satisfying texture and freshness from the edamame. Add in the generous garnish of tomato and arugula and the herbaceous choto karai sauce, and you have a burger that tastes wholesome in the best possible way.
TokiDoki Burger adeptly balances familiar, comforting American fare with some interesting, thoughtful Japanese twists. The exterior might be unfinished, but inside, everything is operating like a well-honed machine.
TokiDoki Burger, 3406 Nicollet Ave. South, Minneapolis, 612.315.4228, TUE-THU 5-9pm, FRI-SAT 10am-9pm, MON CLOSED