Every small town needs a good restaurant with home cooking and friendly servers who remember you and remember that your 93-year-old father likes his eggs “over medium, just until the whites are cooked.” Jordan, Minnesota had such a place for many years: The Feed Mill. Then in 2015, the longtime owners put it on the market, but no one came forward. The building sat dark and empty for a few months until the current owners swooped in and reopened it under the same name, with an eye to making everything from scratch, in hearty portions. Jordan was so ready for the return of its hometown eatery that the restaurant ran out of food the first Sunday it was open.
If you’re in Jordan for breakfast, it’s worth a stop, especially if you can get a table by the windows overlooking Sand Creek and the “Mini Met” baseball field beyond it. You can’t go wrong with a plate of buttermilk pancakes (short stack, $4; full stack, $5), which are light and tender and served with real maple syrup. The house-made breakfast sausage is gently flavored, not overly spiced. Or you can go with the biscuits and gravy ($5), a dish that isn’t often done well in restaurants … but the Feed Mill has a worthy version. The homemade biscuits, like the pancakes, are delicate both in texture and flavor, and the gravy is thick and hearty with a generous helping of sausage.
But it you really want to go for the gusto, order the Cajun breakfast ($11). This is one of the most gloriously excessive breakfast dishes to be found outstate. On paper, it sounds like an over-the-top hot mess: hash browns fried with onions, mushrooms, and green peppers, topped with Cheddar cheese, poached eggs, and hollandaise sauce, then sprinkled with a spicy Cajun seasoning. That’s a lot happening on one plate.
Yet the first bite wasn’t bad. Nor was the second, and by the third, that distinct “guilty pleasure” feeling of joy began to creep in. The hollandaise was thick and tangy and especially nice on the fresh hash browns and veggies. The Cajun seasoning gave the dish a nice kick, and the eggs served as a soothing note against the hearty sauce and seasoning. But with everything else going on here, the Cheddar cheese got lost, unable to hold its own against the hollandaise and seasoning.
The Cajun breakfast comes on a dinner-sized plate and is filled brim to brim, so unless you’re a teenage boy who runs cross-country, you might want to consider sharing this. Also, it’s probably not the best choice before having your cholesterol checked. Otherwise, indulge away. We all need some glorious excess now and then.
The Feed Mill
Home cooking in Jordan
200 Water St
Jordan, MN 55352
Tue-Wed 6 a.m.-2 p.m.
Thu-Sat 6 a.m.-8 p.m.
Sun 8 a.m.-1 p.m.