True Thai in Seward

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

Editor’s Note, 10.27.13: True Thai is now closed.

Considering how universal Thai food is becoming, there is an amazing range out there in terms of the stuff’s impact. It can be tame, quiet, sweet, and completely subdued to even a bland Midwestern palate. Or it can be, as it is at True Thai, roaring with jungle funk and bright spice. The crowds that often rush this unpretentious but comfortable neighborhood Thai joint are the leading indicator that there’s something special going on here. The food has more pep, more punch, and more depth than the majority of its competitors; it stands in direct contrast to the literally weak sauce dished up by Uptown’s Tum Rup Thai, and it rivals St. Paul’s Ruam Mit Thai for sheer impact and honesty. Unlike The King and I Thai, True Thai isn’t so much about a fancy dining experience or a loungey bar; it’s a place for people who love full flavor to savor the richness of one of the world’s great and distinctive cuisines. The price isn’t bad, either.

BEST BET: Bangkok Crispy Sweet Beef, served with sticky rice as an appetizer; an amazing twist on beef jerky and a great starter. The soups are universally good, and the Pad Thai will enhance your understanding of the dish’s true potential.

True Thai

Thai in Seward, Minneapolis
651.375.9942
2627 East Franklin Ave
Minneapolis, MN 55406
OWNER / CHEF: Anna Prasomphol Fieser
HOURS:
Sun CLOSED
Mon-Thu 11am-10pm
Fri-Sat 11am-11pm
BAR: Beer and Wine
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED?: Yes / Yes for weekends
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN: Yes / Yes
ENTREE RANGE: $7-14

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James Norton

James Norton is editor and co-founder of the Heavy Table. He is also the co-author of Lake Superior Flavors, the co-author of a book about Wisconsin’s master cheesemakers, and a regular on-air contributor to Minnesota Public Radio.

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