Patisserie 46 in Kingfield, Minneapolis: a First Look

The sign in front of Patisserie 46

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The Minneapolis corner of 46th St. and Grand now contains an embarrassment of food related riches: the uneven but sometimes excellent Cafe Ena, the charismatic and intriguing Kings Wine Bar, and now Patisserie 46, a high-end bakery that opened yesterday morning.

An eclair on a small plate at Patisserie 46

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

The creation of John Kraus (named one of Pastry Art & Design Magazine’s “Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America” 2005 and 2006), Patisserie 46 specializes in cunningly crafted small bites that you’ve probably never quite tasted before. Small cakes are miniature works of art, and offerings of coffee and gelato help round out the shop’s appeal — the only thing missing is a more robust savory option, although a) they’ve only been open a day, and b) the quiche looked quite good.

Their eclair ($3, if memory serves, pictured above) is a reinvention of the form. Boasting a crunchy, streusel-style topping and a rich chocolate filling, the appropriately chewy pastry is modestly sized and deeply flavored. Similarly classic and vivid is the macaroon ($1.95) — we tried an Earl Grey with housemade orange marmalade filling version that was punchy and delicious, with all the crispy-chewy texture you’d hope for.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

A baguette ($2.75) was good, but not quite at the level of local champ Rustica — the exterior was soft, but the interior had real substance, flavor, and texture. Still, a good baguette is a great, if sometimes underappreciated, thing.

Patisserie 46
Bakery in Kingfield, Minneapolis

4552 Grand Ave S
Minneapolis, MN 55419
612.354.3257
HOURS:
Tue-Fri 7am-6pm
Sat 7am-7pm
Sun 7am-2pm
Mon CLOSED

OWNER / CHEF: John Kraus
BAR: No
RESERVATIONS: No

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

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James Norton

James Norton is editor and co-founder of the Heavy Table. He is also the co-author of Lake Superior Flavors, the co-author of a book about Wisconsin’s master cheesemakers, and a regular on-air contributor to Minnesota Public Radio.

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41 Comments

  1. Can’t wait to check it out!

  2. Do they have donuts? Bismark’s? Long Johns? Seems like it’s getting harder and harder to find a good donut these days.

  3. Author

    They just opened, but based on the goods available on day one (no long johns, doughnuts, etc.) and the overall feel of the place, I don’t think this is going to be a classic doughnut shop. I think there’s a real void around here in terms of a kickass old-fashioned doughnut bakery — Baker’s Wife and Mel-O-Glaze are OK, but could be topped, in my own opinion.

  4. I’m not getting good vibes from your review. A good eclair is a great thing, their version seems like a perversion. And as we can see from Dave’s comment, maybe more of the public wants …doughnuts. I personally would love to see more traditional French/European pastries around. And less of the diabetes inducing stuff.

  5. Lil' Nomes07/08/2010Reply

    Why can’t someone open a bakery in Northeast? We are dying for an artisan bakery over here. Sarah Jane’s is lovely for what it is, but I would love to see something like this open in Northeast. Just my two cents…

  6. Isn’t it funny how we see things differently? I feel like the TC area is crawling with donut shops and sorely lacks a good dessert place, esp. in the patisserie style (because Cafe Latte does not, in my opinion, count as a great dessert place). So I remain hopeful….

  7. i am not shocked, 2 of 6 want donutz(!?), so i guess now i know why i can’t get a decent pastry, in mpls…..you people are whiners. i mean that in the most positive way possible.

  8. I am very excited to have Patisserie so close to home and with Rustica’s departure, can finally (again) enjoy some great pastries in the neighborhood. And real pastries too! Not this US “pastry” processed “food”. A long john?? Really? Does that even sound like a food? I’m sorry but I’m glad to see a departure from the “traditional” American mostly processed “pastries”. You want long johns…? I think they carry them at the “XXXL” store over in Richfield or some godforsaken strip mall in the suburb. I hear there is a 2 for 1!! go get it!

  9. Why can’t everyone just celebrate a great new bakery opening by an accomplished chef. Look up the definition of Patisserie ,” type of french bakery that specializes in pastries and sweets,”. French bakeries don’t sell bloody donuts. This is another example of the culinary challenged here where chefs opening great restaurants feel compelled to have to put hamburgers on the menu so idiots will know what to order.
    Merde,
    lance

  10. You tell them lance with your pretentious use of British terms. Those dumb idiots, can’t we put them in a box filled with McDonald’s? How will they all fit, dumb fatties. Lance, you and I are the greatest people ever! Have you been to the super exclusive restaurant that doesn’t open for another 5 years? I knew you had. Isn’t it the best? Too bad those idiots will never understand how to open the doors. Sorry need to go now, my neck is getting sore from sticking my nose so high in the air.

  11. Italiaprincessa08/05/2010Reply

    how old are u people donuts??? grow up, this man is so note worthly of the industry , a super star in pastry…. and u want donuts??? gross, just goes to show, real european pastry will never be treasured in this country. if you want bars, brownies, and other lame americana pastry find a grocery store.

  12. Italiaprincessa hello,

    I could not agree more, they are serving delicious pastries beautifully presented. But I am afraid “Lance2″ is not going to like your elitism of not wanting donuts, and sliders served there as well. Maybe they can do a pastry on a stick to make him feel less intimidated…

  13. Italiaprincessa08/06/2010Reply

    hey lance! thanks i dont mean “do not make them” just simply sayig there is an entire world of fabulous Euro pastry that here in america, american would totaly fall in love with, IF they only give it a shot! LOL open your minds people, the euros did it first and kept it classic! thanks again Lance! :)

  14. Italiaprincessa and Lance you are a shining beacon of light in this dark and unforgiving north with its passive aggressive people that wouldn’t dream of venturing out of their little dark hovels to admit that hunting and fishing don’t qualify as “culture” and Lance2 just an fyi (and I single you out because you are the definition of passive aggressive in your comment) why is it that if someone is more worldly and understands things beyond your comprehension you figure they are snooty and pretentious? Tell you what… how about all of you nay sayers grab yourselves some long johns and crawl back up into your deer stands where you came from and leave this to us pretentious know-it-alls. Trust me, we prefer it that way.

  15. Michele Bachmann just talked to Jesus, and He said that He prefers jelly-filled. (I’m sure that’ll go over most of your heads…..”Just Jen” rocks, however!)

  16. Back to the food08/08/2010Reply

    Can everyone go back to talking about the food please! You know, it is actually about the patisserie and not about how clever you can sound in a message, which seems to be the current focus here.

  17. Neighborlady08/08/2010Reply

    I loved reading all of these comments!! Please don’t stop. I live very near Patisserie 46 and hope to see Italiaprincessa, Lance and Just Jen. The others are welcome too. I really want this gorgeous place to survive. P.S. I always thought Long Johns were long underwear. You eat them?

  18. Italiaprincessa08/09/2010Reply

    To Jen… Thank you, though i live in Chicago i love to make trips lol, I didnt bean to be bitchy but most people do not give true european pastry a shot in this county. My parents came from Italy and i go to europe at least evey 2 yrs. I just love euro pastry and for the chefs who try to bring it here most american either dont like the flavors, the cost or whatever but I hope it becomes big and chef John will make it a hit!

  19. Italiaprincessa08/09/2010Reply

    and I went to the pastry school where Chef taught so lol I do LOVE GOOOD PASTRY!!!!!! I miss that place so badly.

  20. I went yesterday and enjoyed the brioche (rostock?)… outstanding. Also had macaroons which were good.

    However I don’t discriminate so much in the comparison of donuts to these types of pastries. They are all food. The key is in the value for the cost. I grew up in an Italian bakery with a huge soapstone baking oven. My dad was making artisan bread before it existed, he passed away 2 years ago, but i remember him visiting us in the Cities and he used to get a kick out of how someone could charge $2.75 for a loaf of french bread…. even though he knew a good one from a bad one to be sure.

  21. wentworthwalker12/31/2010Reply

    These comments are amazing! I was FURIOUS when I saw the first few talking about “where are the doughnuts!? this place is for the french and I hate the french!” I thought to myself “WHAT ARE YOU THINKING!?”
    To be honest I have driven by this location proabably a million times. I live a few block away and have lived here for 17 years. What I recall from memory have been a Video Store in the early 90′s that went under, and more recently a rug shop which sold extremely beautiful and extremely expensive oriental rugs.
    That corner has FINALLY become noteworthy within the last few years! Ena is good, I wouldn’t say great based on the prices and level of consistency but still good. Kings I’ve never had more than a beer or glass of wind at but still has a great environment.

    Patisserie46 blew me away. the rich deserts are out of this world. Don’t be fooled by the pro-doughnut crowd. “SIZE DOESN’T MATTER. If you need a doughnut that’s fine you can go to Super America on 40th and Lyndale. Pluck it out of the plastic case and pay 75 cents. A PATISSERIE does not mess around. Just so you readers know: “In France, the pâtissier is a pastry chef who has completed a lengthy training process, typically an apprenticeship, and passed a written examination.”

    That translates into this being a serious bakery. Different? yes. Delicious? yes. Worthwhile? yes. Will it last? I hope so.

    I don’t even know what to call the small dome shaped treasures my neighbor shared with me this weekend but they were phenomenal. One tasted of coffe with nuts and vanilla while another had a carmel shell and apple filling with a nut and crumb base. I’m not food reviewer but they both floored me in different ways and I’ve never EVER had that experience before and I’ve been a sweets enthusiast since I was born.

    Thank you, and I hope you stop by this place to try it even if you don’t “know” if you’ll like it. There’s got to be something there you’ll like. if you like sweets at least.

  22. As a refugee from the suburbs, I found out about this lovely patisserie at my dentist’s nearby office. I love fleeing the southeastern suburbs occasionally for some real food. Sooo…I drove over, found a lucky parking spot and ventured in. Lovely atmosphere…no loud music, no people yelling above the music…and real European pastries. Aahhh… the latte was the best I’d had in years. And the little chocolate/orange “cake” (sorry, not schooled in French terms)was a delight. I stocked up on some culinary treasures – baguette, croissant, brioch with chocolate bits – and trudged off in the sub-zero wind chill to my car. Something about yummy carbs and a hot beverage to make the Minnesota winter a bit more bearable. I’ll hit the elliptical next week. Now, for the brioch and chocolate bits…mmmmmm..

  23. Is this the place that offers Pithiviers cookies around Christmas time? (December and January)

  24. STEVEN REHMANN11/12/2011Reply

    I JUST SAW YOU’S GUYS ON WCCO AND CAN’T WAIT TO CHECK 46 OUT. I WILL BRING ME GIRLFRIEND. WE ARE FROM 46 MILES WEST OF YOU AND CAN’T WAIT TO TRY ONE OF EVERYTHING!

  25. Will you have Pithiviers this Christmas season?

  26. EuroBreadLover01/04/2012Reply

    You guys can’t be serious… doughnuts?!? This is the absolutely BEST bakery in town… dare I even say they sell the best bread this side of the Atlantic?!? High quality, delicious European style pastries and breads. Something I’ve been craving here for years and years. We finally have providers of true taste and culinary sophistication move in to our local neighborhood, and you want doughnuts? I’m sick to my stomach.

  27. There is nothing else like it in Minnesota. I set up appointments there weekly even though it means driving in from Excelsior. In addition to the amazing pastries and bread, they have a staff that is incredible. Everyone loves this place.

  28. *Face palm* Seriously, people? Doughnuts? This is a PATISSERIE with a well-respected baker, not a 711 out in the middle of a cow field :-p

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