Patisserie 46 in Kingfield, Minneapolis: a First Look
The Minneapolis corner of 46th St. and Grand now contains an embarrassment of food related riches: the uneven but sometimes excellent Cafe Ena, the charismatic and intriguing Kings Wine Bar, and now Patisserie 46, a high-end bakery that opened yesterday morning.
The creation of John Kraus (named one of Pastry Art & Design Magazine’s “Top Ten Pastry Chefs in America” 2005 and 2006), Patisserie 46 specializes in cunningly crafted small bites that you’ve probably never quite tasted before. Small cakes are miniature works of art, and offerings of coffee and gelato help round out the shop’s appeal — the only thing missing is a more robust savory option, although a) they’ve only been open a day, and b) the quiche looked quite good.
Their eclair ($3, if memory serves, pictured above) is a reinvention of the form. Boasting a crunchy, streusel-style topping and a rich chocolate filling, the appropriately chewy pastry is modestly sized and deeply flavored. Similarly classic and vivid is the macaroon ($1.95) — we tried an Earl Grey with housemade orange marmalade filling version that was punchy and delicious, with all the crispy-chewy texture you’d hope for.
A baguette ($2.75) was good, but not quite at the level of local champ Rustica — the exterior was soft, but the interior had real substance, flavor, and texture. Still, a good baguette is a great, if sometimes underappreciated, thing.
Bakery in Kingfield, Minneapolis
4552 Grand Ave S
Minneapolis, MN 55419
OWNER / CHEF: John Kraus