Let’s face it: Mondays suck. But thanks to Sun Street Breads, they’re easier to take these days. For on the first day of the work week, Sun Street stays up past its usual bedtime of 2pm to serve pizzas to the starving masses. At least they must be starving, judging from the fast-moving line snaking down the sidewalk on a recent Monday night.
Known throughout the Twin Cities for its breads, biscuits, and boulder-sized cookies, Tangletown’s Sun Street began its new Monday pizza night in May. The pies are Pizzeria Lola-sized, making them shareable — but it’s not hard to eat the entire thing yourself. Your options are limited but thorough: There’s a plain cheese, seasonal veggie, a couple with meat, and a market pie featuring a little bit of everything. But most importantly, the crust: Sun Street has it about 90 percent solid. It’s tender enough to give with each bite but sturdy enough to hold toppings without a center sag (a la Punch). Only a little extra seasoning — a drizzle more oil or a sprinkle of salt — would put it on par with the cream of the Minneapolis-St. Paul pizza crop.
The cheese pie ($7, above) may be called plain, but for those of us who treasure a simple pizza with rich sauce and gooey mozzarella, Sun Street’s take on the classic hits the spot. Though the pie arrives on the table sporting a greasy sheen, it doesn’t taste excessively oily — it’s just rich with cheesy goodness. The vegetable version ($9, below left center) varies from week to week, but whatever is on the menu is a good bet. A recent combination of turnip greens — slightly bitter but not too peppery — expertly balanced chunks of sweet potato, earthy pine nuts, and creamy dollops of goat cheese. The Hawaiian ($10, below top right), comprising house-made spam, pineapple, mozzarella, and tomato sauce, also pits sweet and salty flavors against one another with success.
Beyond pizza, the Monday night menu only boasts two items, a Casear and a house salad, which rotates ingredients. The Caesar ($4) offers generous amounts of Parmesan-laden dressing and thick croutons, but consider yourself warned: Sun Street doesn’t shirk on the anchovies. Though there are no visible fishies on the plate, the flavor dominates, so opt for the house if you’re anchovy-averse. And if you’re lucky, there may be a few cookies left to end your meal on a sweet note — or a baguette to bring home for the next day.
Sun Street Breads
Bakery / cafe in Tangletown, Minneapolis
4600 Nicollet Ave
Minneapolis, MN 55419
OWNERS: Solveig Tofte and Martin Ouimet
Pizza served Monday 6-8 pm only
Bakery open daily 6:30am-2pm
BAR: Beer and wine
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED: No
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN: Yes / No
ENTREE RANGE: $7-10 for pizza