A burger named after the chef’s childhood nickname would make you think it would also be diminutive — a slider, perhaps. But that’s not the case at Patrick’s Bakery & Café in Edina, where owner Patrick Bernet recently introduced the Patou burgers ($9-10) to his dinner menu. This family of burgers and sandwiches takes the opposite approach, expanding the size of your typical burger to cover the length of a generous cut of baguette. Diminutive these burgers ain’t.
Created by Bernet in an attempt to recreate the “heavenly” burgers for which he used to sneak out of his house in France, the Patou line offers five sandwiches that vary in meat, toppings, and, ultimately, success. The Forestier burger benefited from its generous topping of caramelized onions, mushrooms, and bacon. The smokiness of the bacon added a rich flavor to the vegetables, creating a savory bite that helps one overlook the blandness of the hamburger patties themselves. But the dusting of shredded mozzarella cheese atop the Californian burger did little to perk up those overcooked patties, and with the tangy sauce and sour cornichons buried below the burgers in the baguette, it was too little, too late for a flavor punch.
On the opposite end of the spectrum lies the Barbecued Beef Brisket burger — one bite of a friend’s sandwich made me cast longing glances her way as she enjoyed the hearty beef mixture glistening with a full-bodied barbecue sauce and onions. Likewise, the Merguez burger had the musky zip from the spicy lamb that the traditional beef burgers were sorely lacking.
Each burger comes with a mess of fries scattered over the top of the baguette, leaving you to wonder if it’s proper to brush them off or eat them as is. We elected for the latter and discovered that the thin, almost McDonald’s-like fries didn’t enhance or detract from the burgers beneath them. The sub-par potatoes leave you wishing that Salut’s stellar spuds would make their way south from 50th and France to grace your plate. Oh well, at least you can grab a few pastries from the bakery counter as a consolation.
Patrick’s Bakery and Café
Bistro-style meals and European-inspired treats
2928 W 66th St
CHEF / OWNER: Patrick Bernet
BAR: Beer / wine
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED: No / No
VEGETARIANS / VEGANS: Yes / No
ENTREE RANGE: $9-19