A scone is not breakfast. There, I said it. Neither is a muffin. That is cake. Breakfast is hot, it’s savory. It’s filling enough to get you through to noon, but not so big that it reminds you of dinner the night before. Thank you, Maeve, for recognizing that.
We’ve got plenty of fantastic breakfast places in the Twin Cities; it’s one of the things we do best. We’ve also got a bevy of great coffeeshops. We don’t have a lot of places that marry the two. (Anodyne in Southwest Minneapolis comes to mind, but that’s pretty much it.)
Now we have Maeve’s Café in Northeast Minneapolis. Furnished with church pews and mix-and-match chairs on a black-and-white parquet floor, Maeve’s feels like it’s been here forever. Nope. It opened in early October and already has a folks who can come to the register and hear, “The usual?” Most are comfortable enough to linger.
For breakfast there are, in fact, scones. But those of us who scorn them can also get a just-right-sized slice of savory sausage strata or a cunning little dish of baked eggs with spinach. It’s not a huge menu, but it’s enough. The strata ($5.25) is filling and comforting, as breakfast should be when the first snow floats by the window, spiked with fennel-y bits of sausage and rivers of melted cheddar. A little fruit on the side shows that Maeve cares about your health.
For lunch, again, the menu is brief — a half dozen or so hot or cold sandwiches — but when a coffeeshop can get away with prewrapped sandwiches priced $7 and up, Maeve’s has chosen not to do that. Instead, have one of the hot panini, like the one made with generous slices of brie with zucchini and peppers roasted right there in the kitchen ($6). On the side, a tangily-dressed pile of baby arugula.
Another reason to linger: little plates with slices of cheese, sausages, figs, roasted vegetables, and smoked trout ($4–$7.50), made to be picked at as you chat with old friends. It’s just the sort of thing you might set out when friends drop by unexpectedly.
Welcome to the neighborhood, Maeve. It’s good to get to know you.
Coffeeshop in Northeast Minneapolis
300 13th Ave NE
Minneapolis, MN 55413
Sun: 7:30 a.m.-7pm
ENTREE RANGE: $6–8