With the early arrival of spring this year, we are already well into food truck season. Schedules are mostly set, lines are long, and all the nearby benches are occupied with lunching workers cradling cardboard boats and eating carefully so as not to spill on their chinos — unless, for example, you’re at the state Capitol on the day after the conclusion of the legislative session, and there is light rain under grey skies. In that case, there won’t be lines at the two food trucks that, like our legislators, determinedly showed up for the special session.
One of the two trucks (a trailer really, but nobody says “food trailers”) is Lucky Brisket BBQ, bedecked in orange, windows open, awning drawn up to protect diners from the rain, neither of which have shown up yet beyond a trickle. The smell of smoked meat hits the nose at about the same distance that the logo becomes legible. The menu is focused, nothing more than brisket and pork sandwiches and coleslaw and beans for sides.
We tried (what else?) the shredded brisket sandwich ($9) with coleslaw ($2) and were delighted with the result. A generous pile of brisket, blackened edges and all (with a visible smoke ring), is served on a soft white bun. The meat is toothsome and lean — sitting an even distance between melt-in-your-mouth tender and jaw-achingly tough. It’s smoky, yet the taste of the meat shines through. As we like it, the brisket is served without sauce, but Lucky Brisket’s own brand of sauces (spicy, smoky, and original) are a worthy accompaniment. The creamy coleslaw is crunchy and obviously fresh.
Owner Matt Falck is a newcomer to the food truck scene, having launched just this spring, but he’s been honing his craft in barbecue competitions for five years, and his Facebook page shows a variety of trophies and awards. The truck humbly claims that this is “BBQ Born From Competition,” which makes us wonder why we don’t go to more barbecue competitions, and also whether there are taco competitions, or lobster roll competitions.
Follow Lucky Brisket BBQ on Twitter, and you can get your fix around St. Paul.