We’ve already written a hymn of praise to the scratch-made Latin food being served up at Sonora Grill in the Midtown Global Market, so here’s a much shorter piece — a limerick or ditty of praise — to the restaurant’s chilaquiles ($6.50).
This classic Mexican hodgepodge of ingredients starts with tortilla chips soaked in a salsa or mole, and from there it’s up to the chef to improvise and improve. Many chilaquiles feature chips that are soaked to the point of becoming soggy but the chips in the Sonora Grill version stayed crispy and extremely light, even amid the huevos rojos (eggs and salsa) and scattering of queso fresco. That crispiness gives the Sonora Grill chilaquiles a textural contrast that serves them well. Depth of spice and overall seasoning is balanced, and the upshot is damned tasty way to start the day, particularly in colder weather when something fortifying fits the bill.
For a more conventional start to the day, there’s always the egg-stuffed breakfast burrito ($6.95, or $7.95 with the recommended addition of chorizo.) Fresh and satisfying, the Sonora burrito defies the sometimes greasy and leaden tendency of the dish in favor of a cleaner, simpler look. The only drawback is that the bed of tasty, spicy fried potatoes that the dish arrives on tastes even better inside of the burrito… so get ready to do a bit of improvised burrito adjustment.
Latin American restaurant in Midtown Global Market
920 E Lake St, Minneapolis, MN 55407
OWNERS / CHEF: Alejandro Castillon and Conrado Paredes / Alejandro Castillon
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED?: No / No
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN: Yes / No
ENTREE RANGE: $7.50-$8.50