This week in the Tap: A look ahead at upcoming restaurants, notes about spots that have closed, and about those that have recently opened.
The Tap is the metro area’s comprehensive restaurant buzz roundup, so if you see a new or newly shuttered restaurant, or anything that’s “coming soon,” email Tap editor James Norton at firstname.lastname@example.org.
- Barrel Theory Beer Company, 248 E 7th St, St. Paul | As per the Growler: “A partnership between Surly Brewing Company’s former director of technology Brett Splinter, former Surly brewer Timmy Johnson, and CPA Todd Tibesar.” Our preview is here.
- Gray Duck Tavern, 345 Wabasha St, St. Paul | “Comfort food from all over the world.”
- 1.2.3. Pasta, 6508 Cahill Ave., Inver Grove Heights | Fresh pastas, pizza, and more from the owners of La Grolla.
- The Lynhall, 2640 Lyndale Ave S, Minneapolis | “A market-inspired cafe, event space, kitchen studio, and incubator kitchen.”
- Town Hall Station, 4500 Valley View Rd, Edina | The latest in the growing Town Hall mini-empire.
- Rise Bagel Company, 530 N 3rd St, Minneapolis | Quality bagels in a town hungry for them.
- The Original on 42nd, 1839 E 42nd St, Minneapolis | A sandwich shop in the former Colossal Cafe location.
- StormKing Barbecue, 16½ W 26th St, Minneapolis | A new Texas-style barbecue window from the team behind the adjacent Black Sheep Pizza.
- Grand Cafe, 3804 Grand Ave S, Minneapolis | Now owned by chefs Jamie Malone and Erik Anderson, the cafe features cooking with a French viewpoint along with a new stone patio at the side of the building.
- The Cove, 1320 5th St SE, Minneapolis | Can poke succeed where crudo failed? Let’s find out.
- Broken Clock Brewing Cooperative, 3134 California St NE, Minneapolis | Member-owned, the brewery is primarily a production space, with limited tastings and other public events.
- Lien Son, 1216 Broadway St NE, Minneapolis | Back in business after years out of commission.
- Tenant, 4300 Bryant Ave S, Minneapolis | A tasting-menu-only restaurant in the former Piccolo space.
This post is sponsored by the University of Minnesota Press.
“Let’s dispense with the usual old notions of preserving,” Beth Dooley suggests, leading us into Mette Nielsen’s kitchen, where Old-World Danish traditions meld with the freshest ideas and latest techniques. Their approach in the cookbook Savory Sweet: simple preserves from a northern kitchen combines the bright, bold flavors of Nordic cuisines with an emphasis on the local, the practical, and the freshest ingredients to turn each season’s produce into a bounty of condiments.
PICKLED ASPARAGUS WITH JUNIPER AND FENNEL
From Savory Sweet
Makes 2 1½-pint (24-ounce) jars
Unlike most recipes for pickled asparagus, this one does not call for blanching the stalks before brining, so they retain their snap and fresh flavors. Note that the color will change from vibrant green to olive. The juniper adds a nuanced peppery-piney note, while a little fennel seed gives a licorice scent.
Seek out tall 24-ounce jars to hold the stalks upright; otherwise, standard wide-mouth pint jars will work. You can eat the leftover trimmed stalks at your next meal.
Wait at least a week before enjoying this pickle to allow the flavors to marry. The jars will keep several months in the refrigerator.
1 to 1¼ pounds asparagus
4 large garlic cloves, quartered lengthwise
2 teaspoons juniper berries
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes
1¾ cups water
1¾ cups cider vinegar
2 tablespoons sugar
1 teaspoon salt
1. Wash and trim the asparagus to fit in your jars, allowing for a half inch of headspace.
2. Wash the jars, lids, and bands in very hot soapy water, rinse them well, and place them upside down on a clean towel to drain.
3. Divide the asparagus between the jars. (We like putting the tips up.) Distribute the garlic, juniper berries, fennel seeds, peppercorns, coriander seeds, and crushed red pepper flakes between the jars.
4. Combine the water, vinegar, sugar, and salt in a small saucepan, and bring it to a boil. Stir to dissolve the sugar and salt. Pour the hot brine over the asparagus.
5. Cover each jar with a square of wax paper slightly larger than the jar opening, fold in the corners with a clean spoon, and push down lightly so some of the brine comes up over the wax paper. Wipe the rims with a clean wet cloth or paper towel, add the lids and bands, and finger tighten the bands.
6. Label the jars. Cool completely and tighten the bands before storing in the refrigerator.
These tall, delicious spears make an edible stir stick for classic cocktails like Bloody Marys and Gibsons. The pickle’s light juniper flavor pairs nicely with both vodka and gin. This pickle is also delicious layered into a grilled cheese or ham and cheese sandwich. Substitute pickled asparagus for the green beans in a nicoise salad, and whisk a little of the pickle brine into the vinaigrette.
Each Friday, this list will track five of the best things Heavy Table’s writers, editors, and photographers have recently bitten or sipped. Have a suggestion for the Hot Five? Email email@example.com.
The Hot Five is a weekly feature created by the Heavy Table and supported by Shepherd Song Farm.
Fatty BBQ Brisket at StormKing Barbecue
The new Black Sheep Pizza barbecue spinoff called StormKing is doing Texas-inspired food, and brisket plays a central role. We had a choice between lean or fatty (AKA “moist” or “marbled”), and we went with the recommendation: fatty. Good choice. It had a beautiful, lightly crunchy and flavorful exterior bark. It was tender and moist and lacking in the two big downfalls of the brisket: fatty toughness and desert dryness. This is the real deal.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from an Instagram post by James Norton]
Foreign Extra Stout at Pryes Brewing Company
The outstanding beer at the newly opened Pryes Brewing Company taproom is the oddball: the Foreign Extra Stout. This uncommon style is a classic variation on stout. It was brewed, beginning in the 18th century, with a robust profile that would withstand transport to other countries. Foreign extra stouts are known for an intense roasted flavor and moderate dryness. The Pryes version is rich but not heavy, with strong chocolate and sweetened coffee notes. It’s enjoyable, even in the heat, though it’s on the sweet side for the style (in contrast to the other beers on the menu).
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from a story by Paige Didora]
Strawberries and Cream Frozen Pops from JonnyPops
Minneapolis-based JonnyPops sent over a mess of frozen treats to remind us that they’ll be slinging them at the State Fair again this year, and this post is our official acknowledgement that they’re still delicious. Strawberries and Cream stands at the top of the heap of flavors — qualities of sweetness, tartness, creaminess are in perfect balance. They’re good now, and they’ll be doubly good at the end of August under the hot, end-of-summer sun. And if you buy a $10 wristband, you can get unlimited junior pops for the day, which is kind of maybe too many pops, but then again maybe not.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by James Norton]
Sour Cream-Raisin Pie at the Cedarwood Restaurant in Onamia
After a long day trip to the Iron Range, my 94-year-old father and I needed some supper and stopped at the Cedarwood Restaurant in Onamia. The counter had a whiteboard with a lengthy list of pies, and I pointed out one in particular to Dad: sour cream-raisin pie. Neither of us has had a piece of sour cream-raisin pie in more than four years, since my mother died; she was a stellar pie maker, and sour cream-raisin was her specialty. Dad had to think about it for a few moments, but agreed that maybe it was OK to try it. When the slice arrived, I let him go first. He took a bite, frowning, then said: “That’s pretty good. Not as good as your mother’s, of course, but pretty good.” He took another bite. “You know, that’s really good. I just don’t think there’s anything more elegant than sour cream-raisin pie.” I tried a bite and had to agree: The joy of sour cream-raisin pie is in its tangy-sweet creamy filling, which Cedarwood provided in near perfection. Poking at the crust, I posited the idea that not only was it homemade, it might have involved lard. Dad poked at the crust too, marveling at its flakiness: “Just like your mother used to make.” It was a great way to transition out of the sour-cream-raisin-pie-less stage of mourning.
[Last Week on the Hot Five: #2 | Submitted by Amy Rea]
The NY Strip Loin at The Lexington
Our review this week of The Lexington was warts and all, but the best part of the “and all” half of that equation in certainly the restaurant’s 16-ounce New York Strip Loin. Bone marrow butter drizzled over the top added a richness to the perfectly cooked, beautifully crusted meat.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from a review by Ted Held]
We were excited. Admittedly, we were swept up by the tsunami of hype that carried The Lexington (1096 Grand Ave, St. Paul) from a multi-year closure, a sale, and a multi-million-dollar remodel, to a final opening of its doors earlier this year. With St. Paul’s own Jack Riebel, previously of Butcher and the Boar, running the kitchen, our hearts were aflutter with dreams of expertly prepared, innovative food with a nod to tradition, impeccable service, and a setting that stopped just short of actual travel through time and space. Alas, we wish we could report that everything was magical in the storied windowless box on the corner of Lexington and Grand, but what we found over the course of three visits in June was uneven food and capable but unconfident service.
The Lexington has several main rooms: a bar, two dining rooms (one with a window looking into the kitchen), and the Williamsburg Room, the breathtaking back bar where you’ll find live jazz on weekend nights. The wood paneling is regal and dark. Opaque, backlit glass gives the bar a genuine pre-war feel. The chairs are leather-clad, and the tables dressed in white cloth.
If you want to visit the Lexington but find their dinner menu a little too steep to dive into, consider the bar menu. There is some overlap with the dinner menu, but at a more accessible price (standards being relative, of course). We ate the Prime Beef Burger ($15), ordered medium rare, and it was fantastic. It was wider than the large sesame seed bun by an inch or two, and so tender that it could have been steak tartare slapped on the grill. Burgers are often a little beyond the requested level of doneness by the time they reach the table but this one was truly medium rare. The garlic parsley fries were a worthy accompaniment. We found our Jalisco Old Fashioned ($12), with its woody aftertaste of reposado, to be a delightfully sweet, citrusy way to end a workday. Everything went right at our late afternoon visit to the bar.
It was a different story at dinner. From the sliced radish crudité that arrived in a puddle of water, such that no dressing could adhere, to the desserts that could plausibly have come from a freezer case, there were as many lowlights as there were highlights.
On a round of drinks, we went two and two. The gin Rickey ($12) was simple and solid, as it should be when club soda and gin are mixed. The Punch du Lex ($12, above) was sweet and fun, with the dark rum shining through the punch. On the other hand, the Scofflaw ($12) was astringent, all lemon and grenadine, and the Lex Cup ($10) was unfocused and overly sweet, and sat mostly untouched.
Our appetizers were likewise mixed. The Cast Iron Scampi ($17) should have been a home run. With olive oil instead of butter and paprika and chili pepper in addition to garlic, the result was not recognizable as scampi. Not a bad thing necessarily, but the shrimp were spongy and heavy, as if they’d been poached in oil instead of sauteed. We ate four of the six shrimp.
The Smoked Lakefish Platter ($16) was considerably better. The salmon rillettes were lovely, rich and smoky, and the lake trout was flaky and firm. The whitefish salad was overdressed, and salmon roe added an unpleasant fishiness. It would have been improved with the addition of herbs. Caveats aside, we polished off the platter with gusto.
The 16-ounce NY Strip Loin ($46) was pitch perfect. Bone marrow butter drizzled over the top added a richness to the perfectly cooked, beautifully crusted meat. Similarly, the Beef Pot au Pho ($26), a Southeast Asian twist on pot-au-feu, the French classic, was almost as delightful. The slow cooked roast fell apart at the threat of a spoon. Slightly cooked bok choy was crunchy, and abundant fresh cilantro and mint were vibrant and aromatic. In place of pho noodles were toasty, nutty spaetzle that held their texture in the overly salted pholike broth.
The Lobster a’la Diavlo ($29) was serviceable Italian-American. The spaghetti was al dente and toothsome, but the lobster had a chalky texture that we found off-putting. The roasted tomato sauce was spicy in a Minnesota way, and a mint chiffonade lent a subtle cooling touch.
The Polynesian Spare Ribs ($17 for a half rack) were the dud of the entrees. Splayed out like pick-up-sticks, they arrived barely lukewarm. The sweet glaze was one-note and the ribs themselves brought little to play. We picked at them and brought the leftovers home to fulfill their destiny as the protein ingredient in a rice bowl.
We shared a side of Cheesy Cauliflower ($9) and found it to be poorly executed. It tasted more of roux than cheese and had a floury texture. None of us ate more than a bite, and the nearly-full dish was cleared from the table without query or comment.
Dessert could have saved a shaky meal that to this point had some legitimate highlights (I’m looking at you, Lexington’s beef). But both the Cheesecake ($8) and the Chocolate Tart with dulce de leche ($8) fell utterly flat. The cheesecake had a gelatinous feel and an unappealingly bitter jellied topping, and the tart was made of a flavorless pastry with a sad filling that had only echoes of caramelized sugar and milk. Missing in action: chocolate.
For those of you keeping score at home, that’s one drink, one appetizer, one entree, one side, and two desserts that went conspicuously unfinished. If four people don’t finish six shrimp, if the ribs are four-fifths uneaten, if four people take only four small spoonfuls from a large serving of cauliflower, if two desserts sit half uneaten (sacrebleu!), the staff should take notice. Though they visited our table repeatedly to ask, in a general way, how things were, they should have asked directly about the uneaten food.
At its core, the Lexington is a fine-dining supper club. Which raises the question (yet again): What exactly is fine dining? Is it $46 for a steak or $17 for a tiny science experiment that resembles food? Is it a server wearing a black apron and crisp white shirt or a beard and flannel? Is it a rich zip code or an up-and-coming neighborhood? Certainly, it can be any of these things. As the saying goes, it’s hard to describe, but we know it when we see it.
Regardless of hints of forward thinking on the menu, regardless of the millions of dollars spent remodeling, regardless of the next-gen Dyson hand dryers that look like they came from artwork on a ’70s future-themed pinball machine, and regardless of the ever-so-slightly playful drink menu, we found an experience that would be immediately familiar to the generation that first visited the Lexington when it opened in 1935. It is a wonderful legacy, and one that could be successfully revived.
But there is an increasingly crowded market for restaurants that want $300 for a full dinner experience for four — from Spoon and Stable, to The Bachelor Farmer, to Saint Genevieve and Saint Dinette — and each these restaurants brings a unique perspective, style, and sense of place. In a crowded market, and for those prices, they had better hit it out of the park at every turn, and that’s not what we found at the Lexington in 2017.
Historic fine dining supper club
1096 Grand Ave
St. Paul, MN 55105
OWNERS / CHEF: Josh Thoma, Kevin Fitzgerald, Jack Riebel / Jack Riebel
HOURS: Daily 3 p.m.-close
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED?: Yes / Yes
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN: Yes / Ask
ENTREE RANGE: $17-$48
NOISE LEVEL: Amenable din
PARKING: Multiple lots nearby, street parking
India Pale Ale continues to be the hottest-seller among craft beer styles according to national polls. This British style turned American best-seller is well known to Minnesotans, and several local breweries call an IPA their flagship beer. Steel Toe Size 7, Fulton 300, and Surly Furious (a variation on the style) are among the best known.
One Minnesota IPA, Miraculum, has been without a taproom to call home until this week, when Pryes Brewing Company opened on West River Road, north of downtown Minneapolis. No longer homeless, Miraculum is joined by four new beers as the taproom debuts.
Owner and brewer Jeremy Pryes once brewed in the former Lucid space in Minnetonka, and prior to that he spent years shaping recipes as a home brewer.
Though the taproom is just across the river from Northeast Minneapolis, which is widely known as a beer destination, it feels distinctly different from its neighbors. The patio is separated from the Mississippi by only one street, and weekend water-skiing shows and a convergence of bike paths bring a steady stream of passersby. The Pryes taproom is also distinguished by its design. Its interior has a cohesive look rather than the work-in-progress feel of early taprooms such as Northgate or Bent Paddle.
A natural first taste would be the Blonde, which is described as “bright, lemon, peppercorn.” The aroma holds little of the listed descriptors, and the light-amber color immediately seems off. For the style, the first few sips are much too heavy in the mouth, and there is little citrus or spice beyond the hoppy aftertaste. More appropriately labeled a summer ale, it may turn off blonde fans.