Heavy Table Hot Five: Feb. 23-March 1
Each Friday, this list will track five of the best things Heavy Table’s writers, editors, and photographers have recently bitten or sipped. Have a suggestion for the Hot Five? Email email@example.com.
The Hot Five is a weekly feature created by the Heavy Table and supported by Shepherd Song Farm.
Beef on Weck at Crossroads Delicatessen
This play on a French dip sandwich brings together sliced-while-you-watch roast beef, a hearty kummelweck roll, a natural jus dip, and a generous side of horseradish. Taken together as a whole, it’s a surprisingly deep experience: crispy, soft, warm, savory, and spicy-hot all at once. Dining at Crossroads always feels like something of a trip back in time, and it’s always nice to rediscover a classic that’s faded from view.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by James Norton]
Grilled Caesar Salad at The Kenwood
The Grilled Caesar Salad with boquerones (anchovies) at The Kenwood is reason enough to pay the cafe a visit. Though the place does many dishes very well, boquerones aren’t often seen on Minnesota menus. The lettuce is grilled and served warm with the plump, cold fish to contrast. One final touch, just-sweet croutons, cut through the salinity.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by Paige Latham Didora]
Winter Rose Pastry at Rose Street Patisserie
I’ve seen this before … almost. In the spring of 2016, John Kraus offered a cheerful raspberry-and-white-chocolate version of this pastry to celebrate the opening of Rose Street Patisserie. The winter version is more subdued in color (a faded rose?) but has the compelling, deep flavor of gianduja (Piedmont, Italy’s ground-hazelnut milk chocolate in the form of tiny prisms wrapped in gold foil). The Winter Rose is a gianduja mousse with a caramel cremeux (a kind of pudding) center. The creamy elements sit on a crunchy hazelnut cookie slicked with marmalade. It was a joy to break a bit of the surrounding chocolate spiral and eat it with a forkful of mousse and cookie. Please don’t utter the word Nutella!
[Last Week on the Hot Five: #1 | Submitted by Jane Rosemarin]
Xalwo at Halwo Kismayo
The xalwo (East African halva) of Halwo Kismayo was a cluster of rich, assertively rubbery blobs of sweetness, somewhere between a lightly spiced clove-and-cardamom jam and a mildly fruited gummy bear. Spread on the dry butter cookies that came on our plate, the stuff was downright addictive, and we had to check ourselves lest we get completely full on the first plate of the night.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from the East Lake Checklist by James Norton]
Oat Milk Cappuccino at Peace Coffee
During our recent break from dairy, a barista at Peace Coffee recommended an oat milk cappuccino (Peace uses Oatly). Though skeptical, we took his suggestion. And it was damn good. Unlike watery dairy alternatives, oat milk is creamy, froths nicely, and blends really well with espresso. It has a pleasant, subtle oat flavor, but is otherwise neutral. While not as sweet as milk, it’s one hell of an alternative. Even though we’re back on dairy, we’re still ordering “oat caps.” (Tip: The Seward Co-op on 38th Street sells Oatly.)
[Last Week on the Hot Five: #2 | Submitted by Joshua Page]