There’s not a whole lot going on in the crab cakes at Sea Salt Eatery. And that’s exactly as it should be. Each forkful is soft and sweet and just the slightest bit briny.
What makes them so good?
Kyle Krueger, a manager at Sea Salt, says, “It’s probably the fact that we use only fresh crab. Also, a heavy amount of butter, which we’re not really shy about.”
Sea Salt starts with the claw and back meat from a blue-swimming crab, a smaller species that comes from Asia and Australia. A little cilantro, a little onion, some sea salt, a little panko, and that’s it. “We don’t add too much to our crab cakes,” Krueger says. “We want the crab flavor to come out and so you’re not eating a pile of bread.” A dollop of corn salsa and a little — okay, a very generous — drizzle of mayo, and they’re done.
We were there on opening day and saw several other orders of crab cakes go out, among the mountains of fried shrimp and clams. Most people order them on their own with just a little tangy slaw ($10.95 for one, $18.95 for two). You can get also them on a sandwich, as a sort of po’ boy ($11.95), but slapping these deliciously light and un-bready cakes between two pieces of bread seems to miss the point.
(By the way, a perfect side dish with the soft and sweet crab cakes is a basket of crunchy, salty clam fries, $9.95, below.)
Krueger and his team make between 50 and 200 crab cakes a day, which means… quick calculation… they’ve got as many as 36,000 to go before that sad day in October when Sea Salt closes again.
Sea Salt Eatery
Seafood in Longfellow
4801 Minnehaha Ave
Minneapolis, MN 55417
OWNERS: John Blood and Chris Weglinski
Open April through October
BAR: Wine and beer
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED?: No
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN: Yes / No
ENTREE RANGE: $5-19