Sometimes all you need to turn around a rainy Saturday is a good breakfast — as long as you’re not the person cooking it. Luckily for residents of North Minneapolis’ Camden neighborhood, they have a cozy local spot to dry off and fill their bellies without lifting a finger. Open since early May, Victory 44 offers many of the classic breakfast dishes you’d expect, but with interesting twists that make it worth the drive from anywhere in town.
Eggs Benedict get a reboot at Victory 44, with fish cakes standing in as the protein rather than the typical ham or bacon. The haddock in the cakes makes for a very strong fish flavor, but it’s nicely balanced with the perfectly poached eggs and addicting lemon-dill Hollandaise sauce. The English muffin, served on the side rather than underneath the eggs and fish, tastes pleasant but unremarkable, especially compared to the accompanying potatoes. Calling them hash browns wouldn’t be quite accurate; with a creamy, mashed inside and a crispy brown crust, the potatoes are in a league all of their own. One taste of the potatoes on my plate prompted my tablemates to request side orders of the tuber for themselves.
Similarly, the standard french toast is upgraded with the addition of whiskey crème, sauteed bananas, and walnuts. The bread practically oozes with buttery richness, and the crème adds a luxurious touch. The Chef’s Breakfast, which combines two flaky buttermilk biscuits with eggs and sausage gravy, caused a friend to swoon with every bite.
Diners at Victory 44 can expect attentive but not overbearing service, and small gestures, like bringing small bowls of fruit for the kids as breakfast appetizers, don’t go unnoticed. Whether guests can find a sunny day upon finishing their meal isn’t up to the kitchen, but it’s doing its part to at least put you in a sunny mood.
Gastropub in Camden (North Minneapolis)
2203 44th Ave N
Minneapolis, MN 55412
OWNERS: Erick Harcey and Ben Hiza
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED: Yes / No for breakfast
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN: Yes / No
ENTREE RANGE: $8-10 for breakfast