The Churn: When Local Food Isn’t

Isabel Subtil / Heavy Table

Stephanie March pries up some colorful “local food” restaurant puffery and finds nothing but rot, lies, and sorrow beneath it. A PiPress profile of Sweet Science ice cream maven Ashlee Olds (pictured above; here’s our profile). St. Paul loses its Robert St. Sonic Drive In. A visit to Darbar India Bar and Grill. There’s “nothing revolutionary” at the new Cossetta’s eatery, Louis Ristorante. And a long-form look at the newly opened Liquor Boy of St. Louis Park.

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James Norton

James Norton is editor and co-founder of the Heavy Table. He is also the co-author of a book about Minnesota sandwiches and the people who eat them, the co-author of a book about Wisconsin’s master cheesemakers, and a daily video blogger for CHOW. His latest book is a guide to the food and restaurants of Minneapolis and St. Paul called the Food Lovers’ Guide to the Twin Cities. Norton has written about food for Culture: The Word on Cheese, Salon, Gastronomica, Popular Science,, Minnesota Monthly, and City Pages (as a weekly restaurant reviewer).

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