This week in The Tap: a new format for the Tap, a look ahead at upcoming restaurants in the greater Minneapolis-St. Paul metro area, notes about spots that have closed, and about those that have recently opened.
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- Tori 44, 2203 44th Ave N, Minneapolis | Official grand opening tomorrow night (May 2). A new ramen restaurant and noodle manufacturing facility in the former Victory 44 location from the owners of Tori Ramen.
- The Hideaway, 219 SE Main St., Minneapolis | “Northwoods burger bar” by Jeff Arundel of Aster Cafe and Jefe.
- Fish Bowl Poke, Nicollet and 34th, Minneapolis | Soon | A new poke restaurant by Matthew Kazama.
- The Grand Catch, 1672 Grand Ave, St. Paul | The Wadi brothers and Thien Ly of Cajun Deli have opened a seafood shack on Grand Avenue.
- Maverick’s, 1746 N. Lexington Ave., Roseville | The reopening of the famed roast beef sandwich spot.
- Spring Cafe, Como Lake Pavilion (1360 Lexington Parkway, St. Paul) | Hot and cold lunches and dinners and grab-and-go at Lake Como.
- Parlour Bar, 267 W Seventh St, St. Paul | The popular Minneapolis Warehouse District bar-restaurant (pictured above) has opened a branch in St. Paul.
- The Bungalow Club, 4300 E Lake St, Minneapolis | A neighborhood establishment, in the former Craftsman space, focused on fresh pastas.
Chef/owner John Kraus (Patisserie 46, Rose Street Patisserie) is world-acclaimed and the hype isn’t fluff – the baked goods at his shops stand up to bakeries anywhere, France included. Therefore, news that he’ll be opening a new location of Rose Street (pictured above and below) at 171 Snelling Ave. in St. Paul falls firmly under the heading of “awesome.”
A press release for the new location cites a mid-summer opening date, and promises ice cream and sorbet along with the familiar croissants and tartines.
What: Rose Street Patisserie
When: Opening Midsummer 2018
Where: 171 Snelling Ave. N., St Paul, MN 55104
Summary: Rose Street Patisserie, the sister store to the acclaimed Patisserie 46, will open a new St. Paul location at the corner of Selby and Snelling. Along with Rose Street’s food offerings, the new location will add ice cream and sorbet to the menu.
St. Paul, MN— April 30, 2018
Beloved Bakers Rose Street Patisserie to Open St. Paul Location
Great news for St. Paul fans of patisserie: Rose Street Patisserie, the sister store to the acclaimed Patisserie 46, will open a new St. Paul location this summer. The new location at the corner of Selby and Snelling will bring offerings that are “authentically French minus the airfare” to an already thriving retail hub.
The menu will include savory options such as tartines, ham-and-cheese baguette, quiche, and grain salad, as well as viennoiserie (breakfast pastries) including pain au chocolat, almond croissant, ham-and-cheese croissant, seasonal danish, gibassier, kouign-amann, scones and more. To top things off, the new location will also have an assortment of ice cream and sorbet offerings — mango-cilantro, salted caramel, vanilla, chocolate, and raspberry-rose, to name a few.
St. Paulites have been loyal regulars at both Patisserie 46 and Rose Street and have actively asked for a location that’s closer to home. “As a bakery we constantly search for new neighborhoods where we can put down our roots. We have found that neighborhood in St. Paul, and we’re sure it will be a great addition to our family. We look forward to sharing many stories and laughs with our new neighbors,” said Elizabeth Rose, CEO.
The new location, which formerly housed a Starbucks, is 1,300 square feet and will be undergoing a refresh courtesy of Shea architects. The space should be ready to open mid-summer and will have seating for 25 as well as great take-away options. Patio seating is in the works as well.
Chef/owner John Kraus, the first American to be inducted into Relais Desserts, a 100-member organization consisting of the best of the best pastry chefs, is thrilled to be crossing the river: “It’s the beginning of a beautiful relationship. We’ve got more exciting plans coming soon. This year is all about bringing our best to loyal fans and introducing ourselves and our offerings to new audiences. St. Paul, we’re looking forward to spending time with you!”
Each Friday, this list will track five of the best things Heavy Table’s writers, editors, and photographers have recently bitten or sipped. Have a suggestion for the Hot Five? Email email@example.com.
The Hot Five is a weekly feature created by the Heavy Table and supported by Shepherd Song Farm.
One Love Bowl at Pimento Jamaican Kitchen
Pimento Jamaican Kitchen’s One Love bowl is just so satisfying. You get your choice of entrees, and I went with jerk chicken and jerk pork and honestly couldn’t tell which I liked best. The strong, peppery jerk is so tasty, the meats are impossibly tender, and the lightly dressed citrus slaw is the perfect foil. This one’s a keeper.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by Amy Rea]
Blue Blood by Indeed Brewing
We’ve been fans of the Wooden Soul series of cask-aged sours at Indeed Brewing from the get-go, and Blue Blood is another fine example of the lineage — yeasty, not too carbonated, and cherry-inflected (almost winey) without too much acidic bite or edge. Pretty beautiful stuff.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from an Instagram post by James Norton]
Smorgasbord Plate at The Bungalow Club
We’ve been looking forward to the Craftsman’s successor — a classy but accessible Italian-inspired place called The Bungalow Club — ever since we heard about it a few months ago. It was well worth the wait. The crown jewel of our first visit was a Smorgasbord Plate that did justice to the tremendous charcuterie plates Craftsman chef Mike Phillips used to put out back in the day. The pate was light and airy, the deviled egg spread devilishly delicious (and equally light on the palate), and the pickled veg all profound without being acrid or aggressive.
[Last Week on the Hot Five: #1 | Submitted from an Instagram post by James Norton]
Clarity of Purpose by Fair State and Surly
The result of a Surly/Fair State collaboration, Clarity of Purpose is an effort to create a New England-style IPA with the style’s full body, strong hop aroma, juicy flavor, and mild bitterness, but without any of the haze that drinkers typically see in this sort of beer. Mission accomplished: Although this isn’t as juicy and intense as the style can be, it’s mellow, tropical-fruity, juicy, and hop-kissed without being hazy or in any way astringent.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by James Norton]
California Steakburger at Freddy’s Frozen Custard
The Wichita-based and rapidly expanding Freddy’s franchise is creeping into Minnesota suburbs, so we decided to give it a shot. Although the frozen custard doesn’t measure up to anything out of Wisconsin, the Steakburgers are great, if they’re your style of choice: They’re smashed/thin/charred/steaky-tasting burgers with a lot of texture and flavor. They’re actually so thin that a double is the way to go if you want a full meal (as opposed to the double at Five Guys, which’ll kill ya).
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from an Instagram post by James Norton]
Joining the ranks of University Avenue breweries is the aptly named Dual Citizen Brewing Co. Named for its position on the border between Minneapolis and St. Paul, Dual Citizen opened its taproom in late January. Its production is focused on classic beer styles rather than trends.
Co-owner and head brewer Max Filter worked for Colorado’s Left Hand Brewing Company after attending the brewing program at the Siebel Institute. General manager Tim Kessler also studied at Siebel, and the two (who are cousins) have a long history of home brewing together. Dual Citizen has been a long time coming. It follows a 2010 brewing venture by the cousins that didn’t pan out.
The taproom is a beautiful, inviting space with high ceilings. Two walls with oversized windows allow for natural light, while the design is kept minimalist. The service was fair. The two bartenders during our visit were neither friendly nor uninterested. Prices were in line with other taprooms with 4-ounce samples for $2, pints for $6, and 10-ounce pours for $4.50 for nearly all the beers.
We tried the Lyndale Session Pale Ale for a lower-alcohol introduction to the brewery’s lineup. The aroma was mildly vegetal, an odor attributable to hops. Unfortunately, the flavor didn’t overcome the odd aroma, and the muddy taste contained some minerality and a vague butter note, possibly a byproduct of fermentation problems. The glass was dominated by bitterness and there was little discernible hop-derived flavor from the additions of Galena and Chinook hops.
Also among the menu’s easy-drinking beers was the Kellogg Cream Ale, which was similarly disappointing. An overly bitter flavor masked some of the issues in the aroma, including sulfur and rubber. On warming, this beer displayed fermentation struggles like imitation butter, a hallmark beer flaw.
From the darker beers, opt for the Grand Imperial Stout. Despite an eyebrow-raising lavender note on the nose, the depth of malt character ranged from toasted bread to burnt marshmallow. The finish was quite bitter, even for the style, but it didn’t take away from the malt flavor. With a little more body to elevate this from a colalike mouthfeel, Grand would be a notable success. But other dark choices fell short, from a coffee brown that’s all coffee to the peated dry stout with a chemical smoke flavor.
The clear winner of the taproom selections was the Spring Pale Ale. Though the aroma was faint, the balance of caramel malt and bright, fruit-forward hop flavor was pleasant. Over time, intense bitterness builds, but the herbaceous quality with notes of orange peel makes this beer the best of the bunch.
Dual Citizen will no doubt attract a crowd in the evolving Midway area thanks to amenities like the Green Line and attractions like Can Can Wonderland. Unfortunately, the first impression may be a miss for many visitors. The location and space may bring people back for a second try, and one can hope that the beers improve in the meantime.
Dual Citizen Brewing Co., 725 Raymond Ave, St. Paul, MN 55114; 651.330.4750. Tue-Thu 3 p.m.-10 p.m., Fri 3 p.m.-midnight, Sat noon-midnight, Sun noon-8 p.m.