Heavy Table Hot Five: Sep. 15-21


Each Friday, this list will track five of the best things Heavy Table’s writers, editors, and photographers have recently bitten or sipped. Have a suggestion for the Hot Five? Email editor@heavytable.com.

shepherd-song-banner-ad-horiz-3The Hot Five is a weekly feature created by the Heavy Table and supported by Shepherd Song Farm.


Becca Dilley Photography

1-new - one - hot fiveJerk Lamb with Coconut Milk Beans and Rice and Banana-Guava Ketchup at Chef Camp
Chef Camp was a veritable avalanche of delicious food, from duck-egg-bedecked brunch pizzas to beef femur marrow on fire-grilled toast, but one of the bites that really stuck with us was a Jamaican-inspired twist on lamb from Shepherd Song. Bay leaves and allspice infused serious earthy flavor into fire-grilled lamb that was then served with coconut-milk beans and rice with sweet, hot banana-guava ketchup for additional flavor.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by James Norton]

Amy Rea / Heavy Table

2-new - two - hot fiveThe Old Fashioned Shrub at Wesley Andrews
The Old Fashioned Shrub on Wesley Andrews’ seasonal menu is a complex, surprising drink. Iced coffee is combined with a balsamic shrub then given a sturdy piece of orange peel, some bitters, and a bit of demerara sugar to offset all the strong tangs. On the first sip, the balsamic flavor is powerful, but give the drink some time to settle — eventually the orange peel begins to assert itself too. By the time you’re done, you might just be swirling the watery dregs, looking for the last bit of any of the flavors in your cup.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by Amy Rea]

Joshua Page / Heavy Table

3-new - three hot fiveThe Kingfield Gobbler at Sun Street Breads
If you enjoy leftover Thanksgiving turkey sandwiches, you’ll likely dig the Kingfield Gobbler. There’s really not much too it — just a mound of super juicy pulled turkey, mayo, and veg on a wheat bun. It’s simple comfort food at its best. Pro-tip: Order a side of barbecue sauce to add a little zip.
[Last Week on the Hot Five: #1 | Submitted by Joshua Page]

Ted Held / Heavy Table

4-new four hot fiveJalapeño Cheese Sausages from Clancey’s
Though the spice level of these upscale brats rises barely above a tingle, the chunks of diced green jalapeño add a fresh taste while the cheese brings an indulgent richness to an already rich affair. The casings have a good, crisp snap without any toughness.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted from a review by Ted Held]

James Norton / Heavy Table

5-new -fiveMing’s Wings at Dumpling
The friendly ghost of the venerable Chinese-American hole-in-the-wall Ming’s haunts the location’s new incarnation: the hip and modern Dumpling. You can order Ming’s-style wings wet or dry. We went dry and founded these spice-rubbed little darlings to be crispy on the outside, tender on the inside, and mild but full flavored. These wings are soft-spoken, but they’re addictive.
[Debuting on the Hot Five | Submitted by James Norton]

Jalapeno Cheese Sausages from Clancey’s Meats and Fish

Ted Held / Heavy Table

In these dwindling warm days, if you should find yourself thinking “I wish we’d fired up the grill more this summer,“ take heed: It’s not too late! For those of us who have stood over a grill in a parka, it’s really never too late, but the smoke and the sizzling meat pair much better with sunshine and the smell of freshly cut grass than snow and 4:30 p.m. sunsets. So consider this your pep talk, and get to the butcher. Clancey’s Meats & Fish (4307 Upton Ave S) is in our South Minneapolis orbit (along with Everett’s and Finer Meat Co.), and we pass through its door at least a few times a summer.

The brats and Italian sausage are reliably excellent, but this time we grabbed a couple of the “Bandwagon” jalapeño cheese sausages ($11 per pound, about four sausages). We cooked them in a skillet in onions and cheap beer, and then we threw them on the grill over lump charcoal. Though the spice level registered barely above a tingle, the chunks of diced green jalapeño added a fresh taste while the cheese added an indulgent richness to an already rich affair. The casings had a good, crisp snap without any toughness. We also had Clancey’s brats and a couple of high quality smoked cheese brats from the grocery store refrigerator case, and we all agreed that the jalapeño cheese links were the best of the bunch.

Ted Held / Heavy Table

Clancey’s is definitely on the higher end of the price scale, as you might guess from their tony Linden Hills address, but their quality and craft justifies the pricing. It’s a small shop, easily bigger behind the counter than in front. Along with steaks, chops, smoked fish, and pickled vegetables, they make sausages for every occasion (breakfast, merguez, Italian sweet and hot), but what’s better for the last days of summer than a jalapeño cheese? It just won’t be the same in January.

Clancey’s Meats and Fish, 4307 Upton Ave S, Minneapolis, 55410; 612.926.0222

Shop Local This Fall and Holiday Season at the Nordic Ware Factory Store

0 Courtesy of Nordic Ware

This post is sponsored by Nordic Ware.

Founded in 1946, Nordic Ware is a family-owned American manufacturer of an extensive line of quality cookware, bakeware, microwave and grilling products, and specialty kitchenware that is distributed worldwide. The Nordic Ware Factory Store is in St. Louis Park adjacent to the corporate headquarters and factory. The store features first-quality Nordic Ware products, kitchen tools, and accessories as well as Nordic Ware factory closeouts and irregulars. It’s also home to a contemporary demonstration kitchen where twice-monthly evening classes are held. Award winning local chefs, cookbook authors, and experienced cooking instructors teach cooking and baking techniques and sample delicious recipes. Find the class calendar online at https://www.nordicware.com/factory-store.

Courtesy of Nordic Ware

Half the size and twice the fun, Nordic Ware’s new Little Bundt® bakeware in signature gold gives you lots of beautiful options. Sometimes smaller is better.

Courtesy of Nordic Ware

Check out the Fall Harvest Bronze collection for beautiful harvest-themed bakeware and some of the spookiest Halloween cake pans you’ve ever seen.

In addition to its Gourmet Bundt® cake mixes, Nordic Ware has just introduced two new quick bread mixes — Salted Caramel and Pumpkin Spice, perfect for the new fall pans.

Courtesy of Nordic Ware

And for keeping your Bundt® pans in prime condition, be sure to get the new Ultimate Bundt® Cleaning Tool, perfect for getting every nook and cranny of your pans. Then keep them scratch-free in a soft muslin Bundt® Storage Bag.

Courtesy of Nordic Ware

Get the layer cake pans the pros use, now in an expanded range of six sizes for beautiful layered cakes or adorable mini cakes.

New microwave products make weeknight cooking quick and lunch packing easier. Look for the new Steam Cooker, Multi-Boiler™, Bento Soup ’R Mug®, and Bento Box.

If holiday baking is part of your tradition, but you can’t find grandma’s krumkake and rosette irons, you can always find new ones at Nordic Ware.

SurlyFest Dry-Hopped Rye Lager

James Norton / Heavy Table

The seasons are slipping out of whack. Temperatures are fluctuating more wildly, and the number of massive weather events has been spiking since 1970. Amid the chaos, it’s not surprising that we seem to cling to seasonal rituals more tenaciously than ever. Society embraces everything from the primal switch to warmer fall clothing to the unbreakable curse of pumpkin-spiced everything.

Included in the landscape of seasonal transitions is the ritual of Oktoberfest beer, rooted in Germany but by now native to Minnesota. Märzen beers (so called because they were often brewed in March to be consumed in October) are traditionally full-bodied and toasty, malt forward and mildly hopped. Surly (offering up surly attitude as usual) participates in the ritual, but with a bitter twist: The brewery’s SurlyFest beer is a dry-hopped rye lager, and it’s really the rye that carries the weight of the beer’s flavor, not the malt. The beer is intensely spicy, earthy, and deeply flavored, and while it’s supported by a robust malt body, SurlyFest is more like drinking an aggressively flavored pumpernickel bread than sipping liquid malt candy.

Surly seems to know its place in the firmament of Minnesota breweries — always throwing elbows with big flavors. While still jovial enough to invite to the party, the 2017 edition of SurlyFest is no exception.

SurlyFest is an event as well as a beer; tickets are on sale for the Saturday, Sept. 23 party.

Fat Chance Sandwich Shop in Brooklyn Park

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

If you happen to be in the Brooklyn Park vicinity and in need of a quick meal, skip the strip mall Subway and Jimmy John’s. But don’t skip the strip mall entirely; instead, find the one with Fat Chance Sandwich Shop.

It doesn’t look like much from the outside, and the interior is fairly bare-bones, but on our visit, there was a steady flow of people lining up at the counter, waiting patiently for sandwiches made to order with ingredients either house-made (or, in the case of many of the meats, house-smoked) or sourced locally.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

What’s more, Fat Chance is treating sandwiches with a great deal of care and respect, and as a result, they’re turning out something far better than their strip-mall neighbors. Most sandwiches are available as a half or whole; everything we tried was a half, and that was sizable enough to share. All come on a choice of white or wheat rolls from Denny’s Bakery. The bread was sturdy enough to hold the fillings but still maintain a tenderness and lightness that didn’t weigh the sandwiches down. The fillings include several choices of cheese as well as mayo, pickles, cucumbers, lettuce, onions, and tomatoes.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

There’s also a house-made giardiniera that diners can add on their own, a worthwhile garnish of spicy pickled vegetables with olives and olive oil.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

The Tractor ($8, half size only) was a mix of mild pulled pork, a zippy andouille sausage, and crunchy coleslaw. Our tasters were somewhat divided on this one; some felt that a more assertive barbecue flavor accompanying the pork would have been welcome, while others liked the simplicity of the meat. But all agreed that the pork was beautifully cooked, tender, and succulent.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

The Mother Clucker ($6 half, $10 whole) was a solid hit. The chicken was crispy on the outside and nicely seasoned, but juicy on the inside. That combo, along with the soft bread and crunchy vegetables, was a world of textures in a bite that brought the lowly sandwich into a more sublime category.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

The real winner was the Haystack ($7.50 half, $12.50 whole), made of layers of tender, thin-sliced pastrami and pepper jack cheese, along with a spicy mustard. The pastrami was leaner than usual and not as heavily peppered, but it had a good smoky, beefy flavor that held its own against the spicier additions. With the aforementioned giardiniera it was pretty much perfect.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

The sandwiches came with a big mess of French fries that were delightful. Fries are so easy to get wrong, and Fat Chance deftly avoids the multitude of possible errors by making crispy-on-the-outside, soft-and-pillowy inside fries that are served with a house-made dipping sauce that has mayo, sriracha, and a secret house seasoning. You could make a meal out of those alone.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table

We weren’t planning on trying dessert — expectations were fairly low for the “dessert in a sandwich shop” offerings — but when we saw the “Have some life-changing cake” item on the menu for only $3, of course we had to try it. Said life-changing cake turned out to be a simple yellow cake with a brown sugar icing, not overly sweet, but fresh and light. Was it life-changing? Not in the “Won the lottery, quit my job, bought homes all across the world and a private plane to get to them” way. But in an “Oh, this brings me back to the cakes my grandma used to make from scratch as a treat for me that made me feel loved” way? Yes indeed, for a few brief moments, that piece of cake made life a little better.

It’s worth noting that Fat Chance offers a soul-food menu on Friday nights and all day Saturdays that includes fried chicken and catfish and a number of sides, such as collard greens. Given the stellar fried chicken in the sandwich, we suspect that a trip there on the weekend could be worth the drive.

Fat Chance, 8419 W Broadway Ave, Brooklyn Park, 763.283.5100; Mon-Sat 11 a.m.-9 p.m.

Brenda Johnson / Heavy Table