Chilaquiles at Sonora Grill

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

We’ve already written a hymn of praise to the scratch-made Latin food being served up at Sonora Grill in the Midtown Global Market, so here’s a much shorter piece — a limerick or ditty of praise — to the restaurant’s chilaquiles ($6.50).

This classic Mexican hodgepodge of ingredients starts with tortilla chips soaked in a salsa or mole, and from there it’s up to the chef to improvise and improve. Many chilaquiles feature chips that are soaked to the point of becoming soggy but the chips in the Sonora Grill version stayed crispy and extremely light, even amid the huevos rojos (eggs and salsa) and scattering of queso fresco. That crispiness gives the Sonora Grill chilaquiles a textural contrast that serves them well. Depth of spice and overall seasoning is balanced, and the upshot is damned tasty way to start the day, particularly in colder weather when something fortifying fits the bill.

breakfast burrito at Sonora Grill

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

For a more conventional start to the day, there’s always the egg-stuffed breakfast burrito ($6.95, or $7.95 with the recommended addition of chorizo.) Fresh and satisfying, the Sonora burrito defies the sometimes greasy and leaden tendency of the dish in favor of a cleaner, simpler look. The only drawback is that the bed of tasty, spicy fried potatoes that the dish arrives on tastes even better inside of the burrito… so get ready to do a bit of improvised burrito adjustment.

Sonora Grill
Latin American restaurant in Midtown Global Market

920 E Lake St, Minneapolis, MN 55407
612.871.1900
OWNERS / CHEF: Alejandro Castillon and Conrado Paredes / Alejandro Castillon
HOURS:
Mon-Sat 10am-8pm
Sun 11am-6pm
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED?:
No / No
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN:
Yes / No
ENTREE RANGE:
 $7.50-$8.50

Sonora Grill in the Midtown Global Market

Katie Cannon / Heavy Table

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James Norton

James Norton is editor and co-founder of the Heavy Table. He is also the co-author of a book about Minnesota sandwiches and the people who eat them, the co-author of a book about Wisconsin’s master cheesemakers, and a daily video blogger for CHOW. His latest book is a guide to the food and restaurants of Minneapolis and St. Paul called the Food Lovers’ Guide to the Twin Cities. Norton has written about food for Culture: The Word on Cheese, Salon, Gastronomica, Popular Science, Saveur.com, Minnesota Monthly, and City Pages (as a weekly restaurant reviewer).

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5 Comments

  1. I’ve loved Chilaquiles since I had them for the first time at Cafe 28. I think they only serve them on Sunday so since they are closing I may of had my last. Bummer. I’ll have to give this version a whirl for sure, especially when the brutal weather starts to roll in.

  2. Chilaquiles are also quite fabulous at Longfellow Grille!

  3. This place is a gem. A real find. I love everything on their menu. The Sonora Dog is one heck of a hot dog. Way way way too much for one person. So, you split it and order another treat along with it. The shrimp with sauce on a soft taco is other-worldly.

  4. morchella12/27/2011Reply

    Mmmmmm…. I love this place.

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