The latest from Twitter: @Peace_Coffee plays cupid with “Caffeinate Your Cutie,” @triplerockmpls is serving @surlybrewing Mild at $3.50 a pint, @bittercube celebrates the long-anticipated opening of Eat Street Social, and @Masu_NE will feature a suggestive little Valentine’s Day roll through Tuesday.
Katie Cannon / Heavy Table
We’re almost done: Just two more rounds of holiday parties to survive — I mean, enjoy — along with all the customs and traditions that come with them.
In our informal world, a lot of those traditions are falling by the wayside, and I’m fine with that. I think Evite has plenty of advantages over embossed invitations. And I much prefer a raucous buffet to a sit-down dinner with placecards.
But there’s one fading custom I’d love to keep alive: The good old-fashioned hostess gift. (Even if your hostess is a host, of course.)
It feels good, as the giver, to press a little something into your host’s hands, before you even take off your coat, and say, “This is for you.” It’s a little tangible way to say, “I know you put a lot of effort into this party. It’s like a gift for us guests. And I want you to have a gift, too.” Without, of course, having to say all that over the noise of that raucous buffet.
Wine and flowers will do the trick, of course, but both have the feeling of being for the party and not for the host herself. I like to look for something she wouldn’t feel obligated to open and share at the party. This is for her. Also:
• It shouldn’t be large or expensive, just a modest “thank you.”
• I like something consumable — no need to clutter up anyone else’s kitchen or shelves.
• It should not be perishable. Who knows what your host’s plans look like for the rest of the holidays.
• It should be a treat, something people wouldn’t necessarily buy for themselves.
• It needn’t be in sharing proportions. After all the gregariousness of the holidays, maybe your host wants to put her feet up and enjoy a bite of toffee in solitude.
Tricia Cornell / Heavy Table
• It’s nice when the gift is consumable as is, without any cooking. I make exceptions for handy but very special ingredients like a nice oil or vinegar.
• Look for something in such pretty packaging that all you have to do is stick a bow on it. That way, you don’t have to go to the trouble of wrapping it and your host doesn’t have to wonder whether she needs to unwrap it right away or wait.
I took a quick tour of my favorite local stores, and this is what I found.
1. Bittersweet Farm Ruby Red Popcorn and Golden Fig Chocolate Salt
Golden Fig, $5.95 and $7
Here’s something I never would have thought of on my own: Popcorn from Bittersweet Farm in Lake Elmo and the Golden Fig’s own chocolate salt blend. But as soon as I said I was looking for a great hostess gift and added, “How about something savory?” the helpful staff at the Golden Fig led me right to it. And what a great idea.
The Golden Fig on Grand Avenue in St. Paul is hostess gift central. Nearly every item in the store fits my criteria for a great hostess gift. They’ll even wrap it up for free. And if you’re feeling fancy, you can pick out a handful of items to pack in a vintage cigar box ($5), to be wrapped in cellophane and tied with a bow. Continue reading Perfect Local Hostess Gifts »
Peter Hajinian
When I was single, I had a system for how I cooked. Usually it was a big batch of pasta, or rice, to consume through the week. It wasn’t that I didn’t like to cook. I did. But I never wielded it, the way Gabriel Garcia Marquez said his mother controlled the universe with a steaming cauldron of rice and beans. I just liked having a system of food for the week.
Then, I learned to steam vegetables.
It was a watershed moment, like discovering fire. A golden taste of light and understanding. The feeling of a steamed broccoli stalk splitting as my teeth drove through it like a chisel. It was inspiring. If a little boiling water could have this effect on broccoli, what else could it do this to? Cabbage? Spinach? Eggplant?
I didn’t steam eggplant. Or parsnips. I did eventually learn to roast parsnips and grill eggplant. But steaming was my favorite. It soften fibers, it deepened colors. Spinach turned a rich hunter green. Orange glowed. The tough skin and cool exterior was gone. It was like my vegetables were being completely honest with me. They were telling it like it is, and it was all good with them. No fighting, no bitterness, just pure enjoyment. Sometimes you have to take it with a pinch of salt, but who doesn’t have friends like that? It’s worth it. There’s nothing like an unpretentious vegetable.
Alyssa Vance / Heavy Table
Parasole’s newest arrival opened this week. Uptown Cafeteria and Support Group will be (according to the website) serving “the food we love to eat.” It’s the ninth restaurant from Minnesota’s largest independent restaurant group and it looks like there’s no end in sight. Mozza Mia, an Italian concept eatery serving wood-fired pizzas and showcasing a mozzarella bar, is also slated to open this year. Tack on the plans to open additional locations of Burger Jones and Good Earth, and it’s clear that Parasole has no plans to slow down. But might their recent growth spurt be hindering them from paying close attention to their already existing restaurants? And where is the line between being fresh and creative versus overly ambitious?
Take Salut, for example. Visit the website and you’re prompted to choose between English or French. Drive by a billboard and you’ll see le signature Frog, sporting a beret, taking a drag of a cigarette. Skim the menu and you’ll find it laden with steak frites, sauce boats, and Duck a l’Orange. Take a seat in the fenced-in courtyard in a wicker French bistro chair and you’ll hear “La Vie En Rose” oozing out of the speakers. You get the point. The restaurant has “bonjour” spilling out of it every which way.
However, a recent visit left this writer confused. The Escargot Rangoon touched it off. I was sold before ordering. I like escargot. I like crab rangoons. So what could go wrong if you replaced the crab with ze French snail? Upon review: Snails have no business being deep fried in wontons. My preference is still that they be served in garlicky butter that you can sop up with baguette, a classic dish for a French restaurant. But hey, that’s me. Regardless of the dish’s quality, it highlighted something. Salut is slowly adding menu items that are, in fact, not French. Doesn’t this go against the Parasole theme of opening concept-driven restaurants? (Though on Cafeteria’s website they’re quick to point out that the concept is, in fact, having no concept at all.)
What are Ricotta Hushpuppies doing in the hors d’oeuvre? Isn’t bolognese of Italian descent? Miso Red Snapper served with bok choy doesn’t sound very French to me. This didn’t make sense. Not from Parasole. Burger Jones serves… burgers. Plus the standard pairings: shakes, fries, and the works. Manny’s is renowned for its red meat and mammoth portions, and expected steakhouse sides like buttery hash browns and heaping plates of veggies. Good Earth’s menu is filled with dishes that are, well, good for your body. These restaurants have clear, concise concepts that are carried out in food, décor, and ambiance. But it seems that Salut has been quietly introducing non-French menu items without any explanation.
Salut doesn’t stand alone in its culture confusion. Il Gatto (the Italian restaurant that replaced the landmark Figlio and is one of now three Parasole restaurants in a one-block radius in Uptown) is serving french fries and hamburgers alongside linguini and salumi. There are certainly other local restaurants outside of the Parasole family that serve pizzas or chicken salad in addition to sushi. But then again, they’re not claiming to be Japanese. Perhaps Salut is exhibiting globalization or France has seen an increase in immigration. Or maybe I’m just bitter because I like my snails in butter and not a deep-fried wonton. (Next time, it’s off to Meritage to get my fix.)
Aside from restaurants straying away from concepts, I’ve heard many locals reminisce about two landmarks that used to be — the place that was formerly Figlio (mostly about the old happy hour — $2 gorgonzola fries and wine, anyone?) and the former Hyatt location of Manny’s (where they didn’t have cameras in the restaurant and the decibel level sometimes dropped below “passing freight train”). In both cases, was Parasole trying to fix something that wasn’t broken? One starts to wonder, what’s the rush to grow? There’s a fine line between quantity versus quality, and with all the money that continues to be invested in new openings, Parasole could risk being spread too thin.
by Kate N.G. Sommers on February 19, 2010
Kate NG Sommers / Heavy Table
Heavy Table contributor Kate NG Sommers was on the scene while the Blackbird / Heidi’s fire was still burning. What follows are her observations from the scene and after the fact.
Watching a fire burn can be mesmerizing. The smoke and crackling bring us back to a place that makes us feel comfortable and at home.
Take that feeling and flip it on its head.
Today, I watched with grief and a shaky hand as businesses I’ve invested time, money, and an empty stomach to, time and again, burn silently to the ground. I wasn’t sure what to expect to feel approaching the scene of not one, but two burning restaurants, not to mention one of my favorite locally owned sassy boutiques.
When I got the email they were in flames I rushed to the scene, repeating over and over to myself what I would say if I was to be pulled over: “But my restaurants are on fire….” As I approached 94 from Northeast Minneapolis I could see the newscopters headed toward the scene. From my 35W exit, I saw the smoke and immediately started feeling nervous, and jumpy… I was suddenly uncertain of myself as a friend and as a reporter. Should I be one of the people there? Will I be able to find my friends Stewart and Heidi (Woodman)? Will someone ask for press credentials?
I relied on my trusty GPS unit to get me there as quickly as possible and tested my “let’s hope they work” Toyota anti-lock brakes to get myself through the melty slush that is prominent in all corners of Minneapolis on a 38 degree February day.
Kate NG Sommers / Heavy Table
I ran down the street to get a better view and surrounded myself with other onlookers. People asked me questions when I arrived, wanting to know if they were businesses of local importance. “Of course they are! Don’t you KNOW Heidi’s and Blackbird? They’re two gems sitting just minutes away from where you live! Where do YOU EAT?” I wanted to yell, but found my voice to be very calm. “Yeah, there were a couple of restaurants. My friends owned one of them….”
I trailed off.
An onlooker pointed out that I could get closer, and I walked away. I really couldn’t believe how close they let the public get and yet I barely took any photographs at first. I asked questions, and called in, reporting what I could see… trying to take in the magnitude of the blaze. I can only imagine the desperation in my voice.
For this block, it was over; these business are done… literal ashes! When (God willing) they come back, it will not just be a rebuild, but a rebirth. All I could think about were the owners. I saw a woman with a tear-streaked face in a vestibule across the street from the wreckage, only to realize minutes later that she was the owner of Blackbird.
I was seeking out a man in a cap. I wandered around, stepping over puddles of melt water and hoses, myself looking forlorn and confused. I finally found Heidi and Stewart. I was greeted with hugs of appreciation for my company, and lack of words. Shock would be the easy way to describe it. The discussion we did have revolved around thoughts of moving forward; rebuilding.
I was encouraged to get as many shots as possible and thanked for my presence. I went back to the scene and watched as the firemen and women approached a “passive” fire, one which could not be entered physically due to safety concerns. I watched as windows were broken with pressurized water from a fire hose and I watched as ceiling turned to sky as bits of charming aluminum moulding fell from above. I took my pictures… I gave my regards, and I left.
I still smell of fire, having not showered afterward. When I called my husband, he remarked that I seem depressed. I had no stake in any of these companies aside from personal allegiances. And yet I feel as though I’ve lost something. I suppose the loss of a good restaurant, great food, and friendly staff will do that to you. My thoughts are with those who suffered a loss in Lynnhurst today, and my thoughts will be there tomorrow. Those who know you will miss you, and those who don’t, don’t know what they’re missing.
Kate NG Sommers / Heavy Table
Kate NG Sommers / Heavy Table
If there’s a silver lining to yesterday’s fire, it’s this: while the incineration of Heidi’s and Blackbird was a monumentally depressing event, it was mercifully free of death or injury. We’re lucky on that front.
The loss of both restaurants is, however, deeply disappointing for anyone who loves local food. Both were relatively new restaurants. Both brought thoughtful, high-quality, creative, locally connected food to diners hailing from all over the Cities and beyond. It’s not for nothing that Stewart Woodman garnered a semifinalist nomination for a James Beard Award (ironically, on the same day his restaurant burned); it’s not for nothing that Blackbird has gained a local reputation for creative cuisine including the likes of upscale banh mis and duck confit and pomegranate pancakes.
While it’s too early to speculate as to how and whether both restaurants will make their recoveries, it’s not too early to commit, as a public, to cheering them on as they go. The length and nature of the recovery process is unknown, but all of us can — at this very moment — commit to following that process and helping when we can.
We know that the owners of Blackbird (Gail Mollner and Chris Stevens) and the Woodmans of Heidi’s are luminously talented and fiercely dedicated to their craft. They will be back on their feet soon. The last paragraph of the Star Tribune report on the fire notes that the restaurants’ chefs “left the building carrying their knives.” We hope, fervently, that they have a chance to put those knives back to work, and soon.
Lori Writer / Heavy Table
It may be true that there’s no such thing as a free lunch, but if it is your birthday — and you live in the Twin Cities — it’s remarkably easy to find a free dessert, and even the odd cocktail if you look for it.
Actually, what’s true is this: If you are willing to join a loyalty club and like a good chain once and a while, it’s possible to get all sorts of comestibles for free at places like Red Robin, Noodles & Co., and Famous Dave’s. Hell, you might even get that lunch. However, we narrowed our scope to the locally grown eateries and found, to our great delight, a surprising number of freebies, though their generosity be limited to desserts.
So here, for your birthday pleasure, is a short yet diverse selection of restaurants where you can follow up a good — and sometimes even fantastic — meal with a dessert that is not only free but likely quite tasty.
Boca Chica: This nearly 50-year-old Mexican restaurant regularly makes the Cities “best of” lists, most notably for its margaritas. On your birthday, you can expect a free ice cream sundae and a snapshot of your party.
Craftsman: Chef Mike Philips, who recently won our 2009 Silver Whisk Award for Best Chef, is best known for artisan approach to food — specifically, charcuterie. Follow up a plate of duck bolognese or rabbit confit with your choice of any dessert on the menu, which changes with the seasons.
Gasthaus Bavarian Hunter: If it is songs, smiles, and schnitzels your after, this is the place. Well, we can’t promise songs, but the Stillwater restaurant serves authentic Bavarian cooking — and celebrates birthdays with a free dessert of your choice.
Happy Gnome: Chef Mathew Hinman cooked under both Dennis Marron and Russell Klein, so while it proclaims to be a neighborhood pub, it also serves pheasant tartlet… and a free dessert of your choice, if it’s your birthday.
Highland Grill: From turkey burgers to the famous Steak Salad Murphy (medallions of beef and goat cheese!) this is a good, low key birthday option and it comes with a free dessert of your choice.
I Nonni: Although we wish I Nonni would go local, it is still an award winning Italian restaurant and a truly pleasant place to spend an evening. Plus, if it’s your birthday they’ll bring you a free dessert, your choice. Che sera, sera!
The Lexington: Its wood paneling and chandeliers belie a supper club that loves nothing more than a birthday party — after all, it has celebrated 80 of them. Finish off a classic seafood or steak dinner with a piece of free triple-layer chocolate cake.
The Loring Pasta Bar: A romantic atmosphere, eclectic menu and live music — what more could you want? Free dessert, your choice of any on the menu!
Mancini’s Char House & Lounge: St. Paul’s most famous steakhouse does it right: If it’s your birthday, everyone at your table will get a free piece of white cake, including a candle!
Manny’s Steakhouse: Hey, it’s your birthday, you’re worth a $50 steak or, if your not, perhaps a nice Oysters Rockefeller. Either way, it may hurt less if you follow it up with a free piece of chocolate cake.
Meritage: Russell and Desta Klein’s French brasserie has taken the Cities by storm, winning accolades — including best restaurant — from nearly every paper in town. Go there on your birthday, eat the moules and pomme frites, and then enjoy a free glass of champagne or dessert of your choice.
Moscow on the Hill: It claims to be the only Russian restaurant in St. Paul and it is most certainly the only restaurant period offering a free shot of house-made cherry vodka for birthday boys and girls (of a certain age).
Muddy Pig: This sweet little pub, famous for its expansive beer list, is the only venue on our list that celebrates birthdays with a free rail drink or tap or domestic beer. Huzzah!
Punch Neapolitan Pizza: What could be more traditional for a birthday party? Punch serves it up crispy hot from a wood-fired oven. Say it’s your birthday and you’ll get a free bread pudding or tiramisu.
Saji-ya: Reports from the blog-o-sphere say this is where the hipsters go to get their sushi and teppanyaki. If it’s your birthday, you can choose between a free bowl of green tea ice cream or mango cheesecake.
Oceanaire Seafood Room: Well, it is national, but it continuously wins “best seafood” awards from Zagat and the like. Among other dishes, the restaurant offers the day’s fresh catch prepared with a variety of sauces, from blue cheese to wakame. Plus, who can turn down a free baked Alaska?
OM Contemporary Indian Cuisine: The menu is the brainchild of award winning chef and cookbook writer, Rhagavan Iyer and showcases flavors found throughout India. The restaurant celebrates birthdays with a free dessert called Enlightenment, which was described to us as a combination of mango and puff pastry.
A final word: If you plan to ask for a free dessert, bring your I.D. Oh yeah, and happy birthday!
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