The Heavy Table – Minneapolis-St. Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine and Blog

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

CHIPPEWA FALLS, WI — It’s Father’s Day, 2010. I’m sitting in Connell’s Orchard shop chatting with 9-year-old Sydney Claxton, his father Jeremy, and baker Ralph Couey. The topic is inventions, specifically Sydney’s entry for his third grade invention fair: the curvy brat bun.

Unlike the other inventions, gadgets that stop pencils from rolling off your desk or that pre-crush gumballs so you don’t choke on them, Sydney’s invention has had a lifespan beyond school. It’s actually being sold, with his share of the proceeds going to his college fund.

“I might be able to pay for college when I am 12,” Sydney pipes up optimistically.

Roseanne Pereira / Heavy Table

The buns sell for $2.50 for a pack of five at Connell’s Orchard shop in Chippewa Falls, WI. It was Sydney’s idea to package the buns in sets of five because he noticed that curved brats in the area are sold five to a pack. Making these sorts of simple observations prompted his invention in the first place.

“He said to me, ‘Daddy, how come brats are curved, but the buns are straight?’”Jeremy Claxton recalls.

“I remember I was going around a slight corner of the road and I had to wait for the corner to end to turn around and say, ‘Dude, I don’t have an answer for you.’”

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

When the invention fair came around, the father-son team revisited the question. They searched for curvy brat buns on the Internet, but each search they tried showed “no results found.”

Armed with what they thought was a solid idea, they then had to turn another corner, so to speak – how to actually make the buns?

“We attempted it at home…” says Jeremy Claxton. “And it didn’t work,” says Sydney. “It didn’t work out at all,” says Claxton. “They turned out like rocks.”

The setbacks in the kitchen didn’t stop Claxton from trying to help his son present well at the fair. He went searching for a baker, contacting 12 of them before he found someone who agreed to help: baker Ralph Couey of Connell’s Orchard.

From there, it was trial and error.

“I had dough to feed the ducks for a while,” says Claxton.

The buns have a pleasing slightly malty flavor and a two-part texture. The inside is soft, but the outside is a few notches harder than a hot dog bun.

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Couey says he tried to create a bun whose flavor paired well with meat, but whose texture could hold up to juicy brats and loads of condiments.

“I don’t think if it was a softer bread, even if it was curved, I don’t know if it would hold up as nice,” says Couey.

Claxton is now working with a Minneapolis law firm to secure a patent, trademark, and license for the product. While Sydney isn’t quite sure what to make of the hoopla surrounding his invention (he’s been away at camp since school ended, so he’s just now getting back to business), his dad seems pleased with the interest his son’s idea has prompted.

“It’s kind of neat and exciting that I can tell my 9-year-old son, “Go on the Internet and type in your own name and see what happens. Look at all the articles and people talking about you.” (The last time they checked, there were 180,000 hits.)

Looking at his son, Jeremy Claxton says, “if everything goes well, he may have patent by the time he turns 10.”

What they were eating (when developing Sydney’s curvy brat buns):

Sydney Claxton: brat, ketchup, and relish (his ideal meal would also include potato salad and baked beans)

Jeremy Claxton: brat covered in a healthy portion of mustard, relish, and onion

Ralph Couey: Honeycrisp apple brat, 7-year-old aged cheddar

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

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Graduation, Fathers’ Day, summer, the new Gophers’ stadium: Surely, you can find a reason to plunk down $12.99, plus shipping, for your very own cast iron Gophers Grill Topper, which, after having been heated on the grill, will sear the word GOPHERS onto your hot dog. The Grill Topper works best on hot dogs, due to their light skins, but we also successfully seared GOPHERS into Tofurky kielbasa and Kramarczuk‘s lean turkey wild rice sausage ($6.99/lb.) Though the Grill Topper is designed specifically for hot dogs, we couldn’t stop there.  Instead, we seared a three-course GOPHERS meal.

The first course was a no-brainer.

Lori Writer / Heavy Table

Lori Writer / Heavy Table

Wedges of summer squash, seared and served with a dollop of homemade pesto, were more delicious than the photo lets on. This is summer on a plate. We tried to sear an ear of corn, with no success.

Lori Writer / Heavy Table

Lori Writer / Heavy Table

Continue reading Gophers, Get Grilling! »

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Original Photo by Becca Dilley

Original Photo by Becca Dilley

Earlier this week, the Heavy Table received a note from Monica Walch, coordinator for Dinner on the Farm.

The group is hosting an upcoming dinner at Cedar Summit Dairy Farm in New Prague, MN. “Your tastebuds will tingle as JD Fratzke, one of the area’s most talented chefs, creates an unforgettable five-course dinner, using many ingredients from the farm itself,” says the press release. “We’ll keep you hydrated during the feast with local wine, beer, and spirits and you’ll have a chance to speak with many of the people who worked so hard to produce them.”

The price tag: $150 per person. As a benchmark: California’s Chez Panisse, one of the country’s leading restaurants and a pioneer of using heritage foods and farm-to-table cooking, typically charges between $60 and $90 a meal. (To be fair: the Chez Panisse price doesn’t include alcohol. But the Dinner on the Farm price doesn’t account for maintaining Berkeley real estate, either.)

What accounts for tickets this expensive? (It’s worth noting that Dinner on Farm isn’t the only local farm dinner event with prices like this; Outstanding in the Field boasts $180 tickets.)

NORTON: Thanks for the note about the event. I’ll post something about this later this morning, but I’m staggered by how expensive this current wave of upscale farm dinners seems to be.

WALCH: In regard to your concern about pricing, I just wanted to be clear about everything that is included. The ticket price includes transportation to and from the farm, a farm tour, local beer/wine/spirits, a five-course gourmet meal, gratuity for the servers, all taxes, and a live bluegrass band after dinner. Ticket proceeds left over after everyone is paid will be donated to Slow Food Minnesota, a beneficiary chosen by the farmers.

NORTON:
You know, if you could divulge every aspect of your costs such that would-be diners could see precisely how the $150 price tag is determined, it would be fascinating…

WALCH: I completely understand where you’re coming from. I grew up on a small organic dairy farm in Southeastern Minnesota, where my father is still farming today. When I started discussing the concept of this event with some chef and farmer friends of mine, we went back and forth on pricing. On one hand, we want this to be accessible to all and, on the other hand, we do not want to put these small producers in any kind of difficult situation by having to donate their products.

I am completely willing to divulge cost details… this is an event whose mission is to celebrate local producers and the establishments that promote them. Let me know if this per person breakdown is what you’re looking for:

Food and Drink (most of the producers are running small businesses and need to be paid as such) = $50

Event Execution (staff, rentals, service and gratuities, advertising, utilities, misc.) = $30

Transportation = $10

Insurance = $10

Music = $10

Management = $20

Charitable Contribution = $20

NORTON: How many people are you planning on…?

Continue reading What Makes a $150 Farm Dinner Cost $150? »

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