Breakfast at Victory 44 in North Minneapolis

Jill Lewis / Heavy Table

Jill Lewis / Heavy Table

Sometimes all you need to turn around a rainy Saturday is a good breakfast — as long as you’re not the person cooking it. Luckily for residents of North Minneapolis’ Camden neighborhood, they have a cozy local spot to dry off and fill their bellies without lifting a finger. Open since early May, Victory 44 offers many of the classic breakfast dishes you’d expect, but with interesting twists that make it worth the drive from anywhere in town.

Eggs Benedict get a reboot at Victory 44, with fish cakes standing in as the protein rather than the typical ham or bacon. The haddock in the cakes makes for a very strong fish flavor, but it’s nicely balanced with the perfectly poached eggs and addicting lemon-dill Hollandaise sauce. The English muffin, served on the side rather than underneath the eggs and fish, tastes pleasant but unremarkable, especially compared to the accompanying potatoes. Calling them hash browns wouldn’t be quite accurate; with a creamy, mashed inside and a crispy brown crust, the potatoes are in a league all of their own. One taste of the potatoes on my plate prompted my tablemates to request side orders of the tuber for themselves.

Jill Lewis / Heavy Table

Jill Lewis / Heavy Table

Similarly, the standard french toast is upgraded with the addition of whiskey crème, sauteed bananas, and walnuts. The bread practically oozes with buttery richness, and the crème adds a luxurious touch. The Chef’s Breakfast, which combines two flaky buttermilk biscuits with eggs and sausage gravy, caused a friend to swoon with every bite.

Diners at Victory 44 can expect attentive but not overbearing service, and small gestures, like bringing small bowls of fruit for the kids as breakfast appetizers, don’t go unnoticed. Whether guests can find a sunny day upon finishing their meal isn’t up to the kitchen, but it’s doing its part to at least put you in a sunny mood.

Victory 44

Gastropub in Camden (North Minneapolis)
2203 44th Ave N
Minneapolis, MN 55412
612.588.2228
OWNERS: Erick Harcey and Ben Hiza
HOURS:
Mon-Thu 11am-9pm
Fri 11am-1opm
Sat 9am-10pm
Closed Sunday
RESERVATIONS / RECOMMENDED:
Yes / No for breakfast
VEGETARIAN / VEGAN:
Yes / No
ENTREE RANGE:
$8-10 for breakfast

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Jill Lewis

The great-granddaughter of an Eastern European Jewish baker, Jill Lewis cannot escape her genetic predisposition to carbs. Her love of baked goods, wine, cheese and chocolate may not come in handy for her day job as a Twin Cities PR professional, but it proves infinitely helpful for her gigs as a contributing writer for The Heavy Table and the co-author of the Cheese and Champagne blog. A former resident of Illinois, Texas, Wisconsin and suburban Washington, D.C., Jill now lives with her husband, two young sons and cat in St. Louis Park.

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4 Comments

  1. Holy crap that looks good. I have been having a helluva time getting eggs poached properly, makes me not wanna order Benedict any more, tragic. Damn that looks good!

  2. Definitely going to check this out.

  3. Oasis101 02/06/2010 Reply

    I am sitting at home on a Saturday morning…pondering….why did they fire their staff, have the cooks run the place and take most of their great entrees off the menu…leaving not even one piece of lettuce for salad lovers? I loved the egg sandwich etc…but it appears Emilys won the breakfast challenge in the neighborhood.Than I remembered going there for dinner and getting plain popcorn in a nice silver dish (what happened to the home made chips with that awesome sauce). The food was still good, but literally two cooks ran the entire place and service was attempted, but not a possibility due to the lack of help.If you want to get a 40 chilled in a champne holder…this is your place…if you want a salad….completely out of luck.

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