The Heavy Table – Minneapolis-St. Paul and Upper Midwest Food Magazine and Blog

A brief note on craft:

To those of you who have read this far: Thanks for sticking with me. I realize that this is an unconventional way to write a novel, and that there are numerous downsides to this approach (I’ll discuss some of them in a moment.).

One of the longstanding challenges to writing long-form fiction is often referred to as “finding the time to write.” In fact the time is always there — the challenge is finding the urgency to write, the need to put writing fiction ahead of some more practical and / or enjoyable pursuit — earning money, eating food, taking a nap, catching up on Project Runway, and so forth.

Turning Knife Skills into a weekly serial has made me responsible to you, my real-life readers — however few in number you may be, I am greatly in your debt. In effect, you are the reason I’m writing this. I’d like to formally say “thank you.”

I’d also like to apologize. I know that there has been a lot wrong with the novel so far. “Slapdash” is a word that comes to mind. There is much in terms of physical description, sense of place, sense of time (particularly seasons), and so forth that I think I’ve done a bad job with. There are many chapters currently about 1,000 words long that should probably be 2,000 words long, so that they can breathe, and so that you’re more effectively brought into the world I’m trying to assemble. I’m sure that there are bits I should cut, characters I should add or strengthen, things that need to be reconciled or focused. Too much dialogue, too much tell, not enough show.

When I finally wrap this puppy up — probably somewhere between installment 50 and installment 60, but who really knows — I’m going to throw the comments open and ask for your feedback. I’m also going to print the whole thing out, and read it with a red pen close at hand. I’m then going to revise the hell out of it.

After that, I don’t know. I’ll probably bounce it off of a professional reader or two. Maybe from there, maybe a PDF version of a finished book, or it goes in a drawer, or who knows what. I’ll keep you in the loop, and hopefully we’ll have something readable by the end. Thanks again for bearing with me.

– James Norton, 1/27/10

Each Friday, the Heavy Table presents a new installment of Knife Skills, a culinary novel presented piece by piece as it’s written. If you’re uncomfortable with salty language, please be aware that characters regularly use words and phrases unacceptable in polite conversation. In the author’s imagination, some members of the food service industry have a tendency to swear. For previous and subsequent installments, visit the Heavy Table’s Fiction directory.

knifeskills_600x160Robertson was awoken by a knock on his door. It was loud and determined enough to be the police, and he wondered, momentarily, if maybe it was.

“Godammit,” he said. “What time is it?” he yelled, at the door.

“It’s 4pm on a Wednesday,” said Kaplan, through the door. “Should I leave? Are you feeling OK?”

“I’m feeling OK,” said Robertson, shambling to the door. He unlocked it, and Kaplan, impeccably dressed in a tailored white suit and blue and white-striped Albany-collar button down shirt, strolled into his apartment. Robertson took a moment to consider his own outfit — nondescript black boxer shorts and a Saint Paul Saints shirt with a cigar hole near the collar — and grunted a welcome to his friend.

“Are you sure you’re feeling OK?” said Kaplan, trailing off. “Hello, what are these?”

On the kitchen counter of Robertson’s apartment were 18 different big crescent-shaped empanada-looking things, laid out in three neat rows of six.

“Cornish pasties,” said Robertson. “I’ve been playing around a bit.”

Continue reading Knife Skills, A Serial Novel – Part 35 »

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Cranberry bars by pickycook, creole shrimp and couscous by Bill.Roehl, forbidden donuts by massdistraction, a summer photo from Angry Trout in Grand Marais by gamelaner, cinnamon roll cupcakes by jwannie, and Session Black beer and roasted vegetable soup by andy pucko.

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This Saturday (Jan. 30) the Blue Door Pub and the Wine Thief wine store will be donating 100 percent of profits and $2 a bottle, respectively, from five special wines to UNICEF in support of its Haiti relief mission. The Wine Thief will carry this special on Saturday and the Blue Door Pub will offer it on both Saturday and Sunday.

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If you’ve ever eaten a salad and been left with a bitter, metallic taste in your mouth, Asian pine nuts could be to blame. @TangledNoodle reports on the “palate-killers” that sent her tastebuds on hiatus, @DeRushaJ captures the crowd at Keys Cafe to greet the visiting Treasury Secretary, @YoungChef2 opines that chefs should own up to their work whether it’s good or bad, @Thom_Pham offers a special FourSquare deal, and @SurdyksLiquor discounts wine and spirits for their Heart Healthy Sale.

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Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

Sanctuary never seems as busy as it should, nor is it talked about as much as it deserves. The difficulty is in explaining what, precisely, it is about Sanctuary that sets it apart from other restaurants. The ingredients and approach seem, at first, not radically different from other upscale modern American restaurants — touches of fusion here and there, artful presentation, but not, on the surface, radically different from a good hotel restaurant.

But the truth is on the plate. Past meals have featured dishes like a beef-carpaccio appetizer — rich with the deep flavor of the meat but enhanced by the strong taste of white anchovies and crisp rings of red onion. Simple in theory, but in practice the three powerful flavors are just strong enough to tame each other and balance out into an explosively profound mouthful of flavor.

We recently visited Sanctuary to interview the restaurant’s head chef, Patrick Atanalian. The goal: obtaining some insight into the culinary mind behind a menu that features dishes such as caramelized sea scallops with parsnip paint, granny smith apple salsa, crispy pancetta and paddlefish caviar, as well as tequila barbecue beef brisket tacos with salsa verde, avocado, queso fresco, and garlic chili creme fraiche.

Chef Atanalian, who has cooked at the restaurant for about two and a half years and hails from Marseilles, France, proved to be as challenging and intriguing as the original and multifaceted dishes that fill his menu.

JAMES NORTON: You’re from Marseilles — what kind of an impact does that have on your cooking?

Becca Dilley / Heavy Table

PATRICK ATANALIAN: When you think of Marseilles, it’s not just the fish, the sea, the sun, the beach, the people — it’s a pretty tough city to be born in and grow up in. It’s called the first door to Africa — the number one port in France.

NORTON: So you’re comfortable with cosmopolitan influences.
Continue reading Patrick Atanalian of Sanctuary »

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Dining on lamb (and considering how to utilize the offal) over on Trout Caviar, Bull Run’s “no espresso to go” rule is either snobbish or sensible, Michele Obama gives R.T. Rybak a shout-out for his work on promoting farmers markets, Zimmern sees eye-to-eye with us (and other Subo=Second Coming skeptics), Sen. Klobuchar eats humble pie and serves up gumbo to her Louisiana counterpart [via bring.mn], and how to have a Wisconsin-style heart attack at Gronk’s in Superior.

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